Liffi

Military history of South SudanMahdist War
5 min read

On Mount Liffi, a 150-foot cone of metamorphic rock rising out of the grasslands of what is now far western South Sudan, the Togoyo people said their ancestor Cokwol had fallen from heaven. He landed on this stone, made it sacred, and gave his descendants a place to return to when the rains were late. They sacrificed goats at a particular rock up there for the rains to come. The Togoyo are nearly extinct now. The things that nearly destroyed them (warfare, slave raiding, famine, disease) did their work over the course of the nineteenth century, and by 1948 the anthropologist Stefano Santandrea recorded only a few clans still living near the mountain. The rock is still there. The name of the mountain has stayed. What the mountain knows has grown quieter each generation.

A Fortified Station

In the 1870s and early 1880s, before the Mahdist revolt reshaped everything, Liffi was a substantial Egyptian government station. The Italian explorer Romolo Gessi, writing in his journals, described Liffi as a large center with officials, granaries, and other infrastructure. An account from 1880 put the garrison at 25 regular soldiers and 150 irregulars. The country around was densely populated. Frank Lupton, Gessi's successor as governor of the Bahr el Ghazal, in his 1884 Geographical Observations placed Liffi between the Lugu and Boru rivers, on the main caravan route running north from Deim Zubeir toward the Mahdist territories. The station sat on a trade road that had been carrying ivory and (earlier) enslaved people northward for generations. The Egyptian flag that flew over it represented a regime that had inherited and intensified those trades, and the soldiers who manned it were a mix of Egyptian officers and African conscripts.

Where the Mahdist Revolt Broke Out

On August 18, 1882, members of the Dinka under Sheikh Jango rebelled at Liffi against the Egyptian government. This was the first outbreak of Mahdism in the province of Bahr el Ghazal. They attacked Lupton's bashi-bazouks (irregular soldiers), took the station, and held it until Lupton advanced from Deim Zubeir with 600 men and defeated Jango in a bloody battle at Jabal Telgona. Jango returned in early 1883 with reinforcements provided by the emir Madibbo. On February 1, 1883, Lupton's chief officer Ruffai Agha fought off another attack. By September 1883, Ruffai had been killed along with most of his men. The Dinka uprising spread. The road to Meshra el Rek and the north was blocked. Lupton retreated to Deim Zubeir, and within a year Bahr el Ghazal had fallen to the Mahdists entirely. The Dinka who rose at Liffi were rebelling against a government that had enslaved their neighbors and extracted their taxes for a generation. The Mahdist movement that absorbed their rebellion turned out, in time, to be another kind of oppressor.

The Belgians Arrive and Leave

A decade later, in June 1894, a Belgian force under Xavier-Ernest Donckier de Donceel marched into Liffi from the southwest. He was part of the Congo Free State's northward expansion, and his job was to establish a toehold before the French got there. On September 9, 1894, he raised the Belgian flag on the 400-meter Mount Den Darh near Liffi. His men were short of food, harassed by the local population trying to seize their stores, and threatened by Mahdist forces regrouping in the north. On December 9, 1894, word reached Donckier that Belgium had ceded all territory north of the Mbomu River to France. He and his men withdrew by early 1895, leaving the region to a French administration that would not effectively occupy it for years. The Belgian flag flew for three months. The Togoyo elders, presumably, noted that another foreign force had come and gone.

What the Mountain Outlasts

Today Liffi is a name on a few maps and in a handful of academic papers. It sits in Raga County, Western Bahr el Ghazal State, in a corner of South Sudan that is lightly administered and rarely visited. A 1955 article noted that Liffi post had once been in Togoyo land but was by then in Feroge land, a small way of recording how the territory of one people can close up and be replaced by another's as populations shrink and shift. The metamorphic cone is still there. The goat sacrifices, if they still happen, happen without announcement. What is worth holding in mind as you fly over this empty-looking country is that it has not always been empty. The Togoyo lived here in what they remembered as a golden age. Their descendants, if any remain as an identifiable community, live with the knowledge that the golden age ended badly for reasons that had very little to do with them.

From the Air

Liffi lies at approximately 8.61°N, 25.64°E in far northwestern South Sudan, in Raga County, Western Bahr el Ghazal State. The terrain is flat savannah with scattered rocky outcrops. No substantial airport is close; Raga Airport is the nearest usable field. Mount Liffi itself, at 150 feet, is too low to be conspicuous from cruise altitude, but the dry-season watercourses and caravan tracks through the landscape can be read by an observant eye. The border with the Central African Republic lies roughly 50 km to the west and with Sudan to the north.