Aegopodium podagraria
Aegopodium podagraria — Photo: Frank Vincentz | CC BY-SA 3.0

Nguthungulli Julian Rocks Nature Reserve

Nature reserves in New South WalesIslands of New South WalesByron BayByron ShireIndigenous Australian sites
3 min read

To the Bundjalung people of Byron Bay, the Arakwal Bumberlin, this place has a name far older than any chart: Nguthungulli. In their tradition, Nguthungulli is the Father of the World, the ancestor who made the land and the waters, the animals and the plants, and who now rests in a cave beneath these rocks. Seven thousand years ago, when sea levels were lower, people could walk out to him to hold ceremony. The Elders have passed down a clear instruction across the generations: Nguthungulli must be protected from misuse. Today the place is known by two names at once, the ancestor's and the colonial one, joined as the Nguthungulli Julian Rocks Nature Reserve.

The Father of the World

Long before European ships passed this coast, the rocks were a place of deep significance to the Bundjalung, and they remain so. In the Arakwal account, Nguthungulli, having shaped the world, settled here to rest, and the site carries the weight of that story still. The waters and the stone are not scenery but presence. In July 2023, after a formal naming process, the reserve was officially renamed to place Nguthungulli first, restoring the Bundjalung word for this sacred site to the map. It was a small correction of language with a larger meaning: an acknowledgement, overdue, that the place had always belonged to a story the newcomers never knew.

Two Seas, One Reef

Geography gives Nguthungulli a second kind of richness. The rocks sit where the warm tropical flow of the East Australian Current, the same current that sweeps down from the Coral Sea, brushes against cooler temperate water welling up from the south. The two marine worlds overlap here in a way few places on Earth allow. The result is staggering: more than a thousand recorded marine species crowd these rocks, including over five hundred kinds of fish. Tropical drifters from the Great Barrier Reef share the same kelp and crevices as cold-water southern species that belong to an altogether different ocean. Sea turtles glide past year-round. Divers travel from across the planet to hang in the blue here, which is why the site ranks among the most celebrated dives in all of Australia.

A Refuge Won by Locals

James Cook sailed past in 1770 without naming the rocks; the labels "Juan and Julia" appear only in an 1883 survey of Byron Bay. Real protection came much later, and from the community. In 1982, after sustained pressure from local people, the waters around the rocks were declared a marine reserve, with all fishing and commercial exploitation banned within a 500-metre radius. That shield matters beyond Byron. The reserve is one of only about a dozen critical habitats in New South Wales for the grey nurse shark, a slow, fierce-looking, and gravely threatened species. Among the rocks they share the water with wobbegongs, drifting nudibranchs and, in the warmer months, the spotted visitors locals call leopard sharks.

Holding Two Stories at Once

There is a quiet lesson in how this place is now described. For decades the rocks carried only the colonial name, a survey-book accident pinned to a site that had meant everything to the Bundjalung for thousands of years. The 2023 renaming did not erase the old label; it set the older truth in front of it. To dive or snorkel here today is to move through both stories at once, the geological one written in current and stone, and the human one carried in the Arakwal Dreaming. The Elders' instruction, that Nguthungulli be protected from misuse, turns out to align almost exactly with what the marine biologists want too. Keep the place intact. Let it rest. Both the ancestor and the reef ask for the same thing.

From the Air

The Nguthungulli Julian Rocks Nature Reserve lies at roughly 28.61°S, 153.63°E, about 2.5 km north-east of Cape Byron, the easternmost point of the Australian mainland. From the air the rocks appear as small dark outcrops in clear water just offshore, with Cape Byron's white lighthouse a prominent companion landmark to the south-west. Recommended viewing altitude is 1,500–3,000 ft for the coastal and reef context. The nearest airport is Ballina Byron Gateway (YBNA), about 30 km south-south-west, with Gold Coast Airport (YBCG) about 60 km north. Coastal haze and sea breezes are common; morning light gives the clearest view down into the surrounding water.