When the Norsemen reached Iceland in AD 874, they found it empty - except for what someone had left behind. Bells. Books. Crosiers. The Norse chroniclers, writing two centuries later in the Islendingabok, said these objects belonged to Christian men they called the Papar, who had departed because they could not bear to live among heathens. The Latin word papa - father, or pope - travelled north through Old Irish and into Norse, and where the Papar had lived, the Norse named the places after them. Papey. Pabbay. Pabaigh. Along the southeastern shore of Loch Baghasdail on South Uist, the small island called Pabaigh still carries the word.
The Papar were Irish monks who practised what the early church called eremitic life - solitary withdrawal in places where worldly distractions could not reach. From the seventh century onward, Gaelic Christian hermits sailed north and west from Ireland in small skin-covered boats, looking for the kind of remoteness only the North Atlantic offers. They reached the Inner and Outer Hebrides, Orkney, Shetland, the Faroes, and apparently Iceland - the longest open-water passage any European had yet attempted. The earliest surviving reference is from Dicuil, an Irish monk and geographer writing around 825, who described holy men wandering to the lands of the north. He does not name Iceland directly, but the description fits, and his timing - half a century before the first Norse settlers - matches what the Icelandic sagas would later remember.
The Landnamabok, the Icelandic Book of Settlements, opens by stating plainly that Irish monks had been living on Iceland before the Norse arrived. The evidence the Norse settlers gave was practical: the monks had left behind Irish books, bells, and crosiers - the curved staff of a Christian abbot. According to the saga tradition, the monks either departed when the Norse arrived or were already gone. No archaeological site in Iceland has yet been confirmed as a Papar settlement, though several toponyms - including the island of Papey on Iceland's east coast and the Vestmannaeyjar, the 'islands of the Westmen' off the south coast - point that way. Recent DNA evidence has shown that a significant fraction of Icelandic women's mitochondrial lineage is Gaelic, suggesting the early Norse settlers brought Gaelic wives and enslaved people from the Hebrides, which may complicate any neat story of arrival and departure.
In the Outer Hebrides the place-name evidence is denser than anywhere else. There are at least three islands originally called Papey that the Norse renamed Pabbay: Pabbay in the Barra Isles, Pabbay in Harris, and Pabay in the Inner Hebrides near Skye. On South Uist, the island of Pabaigh sits in Loch Baghasdail just south of Lochboisdale - a small, low island whose Norse name still carries the Gaelic-Christian past. The crucial difference here is that Norse died out early in the Outer Hebrides and Gaelic continued unbroken, so the names sit in the modern Gaelic landscape as visible echoes of an even older Gaelic past. Walk along the shore of Loch Baghasdail and you can see Pabaigh from the road: a hump of rock and turf, named for monks no one remembers.
Historians have argued for two centuries about how seriously to take the Papar tradition. Some have suggested the Norse simply invented the monks to explain the Irish-style objects they found, or that the sagas conflated Dicuil's account with their own oral memory. Others point to the wide geographic spread of the place-names - from Iceland to the Faroes to the Hebrides - as evidence of a real, sustained Gaelic monastic presence in the North Atlantic before the Viking Age. Recent archaeological work and DNA analysis have shifted the consensus toward taking the tradition seriously. Whatever the truth, the Papar named the islands. The names have outlasted nearly every other artefact of the Christian Hebrides, and they carry, in every syllable, the memory of small boats sailing north into a wind no one else had yet faced.
The Pabaigh island in Loch Baghasdail referenced for this article sits near 57.15 degrees north, 7.34 degrees west, in the sheltered waters east of Lochboisdale on South Uist. The nearest airport is Benbecula (ICAO: EGPL), about 17 nautical miles north. From 4,000 feet, Pabaigh is visible as one of several small islets in the long sea loch that forks east into South Uist's southern coast - a green dot in dark water. The other principal Papar islands - Pabbay (Barra Isles) and Pabbay (Harris) - can also be picked out from altitude in clear weather along the chain. Westerlies dominate the region.