Pettigo

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4 min read

On 4 June 1922, two companies of British Army troops with six field guns bombarded a small village called Pettigo. The shells flew across what had just become an international border. About a hundred Irish Republican Army members had taken the village from Donegal, hoping to hold both Pettigo and nearby Belleek against the new Northern Ireland state. The British counterattack drove them out. Four men died on the IRA side, one British soldier died, and two civilians were shot dead by the Ulster Special Constabulary in nearby Lettercan. A memorial erected in 1953 commemorates the dead. Today, Pettigo is a quiet place again, the Termon River running through it where the border runs, with Northern Ireland on one bank and the Republic on the other. But its strangest claim to fame is older than any border: it is the traditional gateway to St Patrick's Purgatory, where pilgrims have come for over a thousand years to fast, pray, and walk barefoot on a small island in the middle of Lough Derg.

A Village in Two Countries

Pettigo is bisected by the Termon River, which forms part of the border between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. The portion of the village in County Fermanagh is officially called Tullyhommon but locally known as High Street, because it sits on a hill overlooking the rest. The Republic side contains Main Street, Mill Street, and Station Street, all converging at The Diamond at the centre. Until the late 1700s, the area was known as An Tearmann, meaning a place of sanctuary. The modern names Pettigo and Paiteagó derive from the Latin protectio, a translation of the Irish An Tearmann. Sanctuary is more than a name here. The lands around Lough Derg were understood for centuries to be a place where anyone in trouble could find protection.

The Gateway to Purgatory

St Patrick's Purgatory, on Station Island in Lough Derg, has been receiving pilgrims continuously for well over a thousand years. The three-day pilgrimage involves fasting, walking barefoot, praying through the night in the basilica, sleeping in dormitories, and eating one daily meal of dry toast, oatcakes, and black tea. The popularity of the pilgrimage built much of Pettigo's economy during the twentieth century, when tens of thousands of pilgrims a year passed through the village on their way to and from the lake. Bus Éireann seasonal route 486 still ferries pilgrims between Ballyshannon, Pettigo, and Station Island. Although numbers have declined from their mid-century peak, the pilgrimage remains one of the most distinctive religious practices in Western Christianity, and Pettigo remains its terrestrial doorway.

Coffins and Egg Boxes

Pettigo Mill stands on the Termon River and dates at least to 1767, when it first appears on maps, though it is probably older. The Leslie family of County Monaghan, who controlled the Pettigo estate until the early twentieth century, built it as a cloth mill, producing woollen cloth. It also ground oats and other grains. During the Great Famine of 1845-1846, the mill ground maize sent through the port of Ballyshannon to feed the starving. After the Enniskillen and Bundoran Railway arrived in 1866, the mill diversified. It became a saw mill as well as a grain mill, and its specialty product was twelve-egg boxes. Eggs were sent by train to Belfast, Dublin, England, and Scotland. The egg boxes mattered economically because many people in Pettigo depended on their egg money to buy groceries. The railway closed in 1957 and the mill's heyday ended with it.

The Boundary That Almost Moved

In 1925, the Irish Boundary Commission considered redrawing the border between the new Irish Free State and Northern Ireland. Pettigo was a candidate for transfer to Northern Ireland because of its mixed Protestant and Catholic population and its awkward geographic position straddling the existing line. Had the Commission's recommendations been enacted, Pettigo would have ended up entirely in the United Kingdom. The recommendations were not enacted. The border stayed where it was. For decades afterwards, this had consequences few border villages anywhere else in Europe experienced. The Troubles brought British Army roadblocks closing many of the small cross-border roads, cutting Pettigo off from its rural hinterland in Fermanagh and Tyrone. Most of those roads have reopened. The village is still bisected by a border that almost vanished and then almost moved.

Riverdance and Other Exports

Moya Doherty, co-founder of Riverdance, is from Pettigo. The show that began as a seven-minute interval act at the 1994 Eurovision Song Contest in Dublin grew into one of the most successful theatrical phenomena in modern history, touring globally for three decades. The Pettigo History Trail, with thirty plaques scattered round the village, tells Doherty's story alongside other local figures: General Charles Barton, who lived at the Waterfoot estate; Sir Sidney Barton, who served as British Minister to Ethiopia in the 1930s; the poet John Kells Ingram; the actor Seán McGinley; and Basil McIvor, a Northern Ireland politician who pioneered integrated education. The plaques also note the village's connection to the John Ford film The Quiet Man, and a tree planted to commemorate the Crimean War. For a village of well under a thousand people, Pettigo punches considerably above its weight.

Termon McGrath Castle

Just outside Pettigo stands Termon McGrath Castle, also called Castle McGrath, a Gaelic towerhouse built around 1611 at the start of the Plantation of Ulster. It was probably commissioned by James McGrath, son of the Most Reverend Miler McGrath, the Church of Ireland Archbishop of Cashel and one of the more peculiar figures in Irish religious history. Miler had been a Franciscan friar, then Bishop of Down and Connor under Pope Pius V, before defecting to the Church of Ireland and accumulating an extraordinary collection of Protestant bishoprics. The castle had an escape tunnel leading down to the Belaut River, suggesting its builders expected trouble. The Leslie family of Monaghan later bought the castle and the surrounding estate. The towerhouse still stands today, a reminder of the unsettled centuries when Gaelic and Anglo-Irish power overlapped uneasily across this hilly country.

From the Air

Located at 54.55 degrees north, 7.83 degrees west, on the border between County Donegal (Republic of Ireland) and County Fermanagh (Northern Ireland), with the Termon River forming the boundary. Recommended viewing altitude 1,500 to 2,500 feet above terrain. The village is small and easy to miss, but the surrounding landscape of blanket bog, forestry plantations, and rolling hills is distinctive. Lough Derg, the famous pilgrimage lake, lies a short distance to the northwest. Nearest airports: Donegal (EIDL) to the west, St Angelo (EGAB) to the southeast, City of Derry (EGAE) to the northeast. Atlantic weather brings frequent rain and low cloud, especially over the higher ground.

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