Main Street of Big Stone Gap, Virginia. Little Stone Mountain and the Big Stone Gap are visible in the background.
Main Street of Big Stone Gap, Virginia. Little Stone Mountain and the Big Stone Gap are visible in the background. — Photo: KJPurscell | CC BY-SA 3.0

Big Stone Gap, Virginia

Southwest VirginiaTowns in VirginiaCoal mining communitiesWise County
4 min read

In October 1978, Elizabeth Taylor walked into Fraley's Coach House diner in Big Stone Gap to help her husband campaign for the U.S. Senate, ordered fried chicken, and nearly died on a bone. The actress was rushed to Lonesome Pine Regional Hospital, where doctors saved her life. Months later she mailed the hospital a thank-you donation. That story still circulates in town, partly because it is unbelievable and partly because Big Stone Gap is a place where the unbelievable seems to happen with some regularity - a Virginia coal town that produced a major American novelist, played itself in a movie, and became the first locality in the country to formally back the federal Black Lung Disability Trust Fund.

Mineral City to Pittsburgh of the South

Before it was Big Stone Gap, it was Mineral City and Three Forks, and the men who renamed it in 1888 were dreaming of an industrial future. The town sits in a valley cut through the Appalachian wall between Big Stone Gap and the neighboring town of Appalachia, and in the 1880s and 1890s its coal and iron deposits looked like the foundation of an empire. Boosters called it the Pittsburgh of the South. Birmingham, Alabama, eventually took that nickname instead, and Big Stone Gap had to settle for being smaller than its boosters imagined. But the coal economy was real, and for a long stretch it defined the town. The post office had been open since 1856; the National Register of Historic Places now lists the Christ Episcopal Church, the June Tolliver House, and the 1912 federal building named for native son C. Bascom Slemp.

John Fox Jr. and the Lonesome Pine

The novelist John Fox Jr. moved to Big Stone Gap in the 1890s when his brothers were prospecting for coal, and what he saw became the material of his fiction. His 1908 novel The Trail of the Lonesome Pine was a national bestseller and made the southern mountains visible to readers who had never thought about them. The Trail of the Lonesome Pine Outdoor Drama, performed every summer at the June Tolliver House, is the official outdoor drama of Virginia. Fox's old home is a museum now. So is the former mansion of C. Bascom Slemp, finished in 1895 and acquired by the state in 1946 as the Southwest Virginia Museum Historical State Park. Down the street the Meador Coal Museum holds objects Henry Meador collected during a working life at Westmoreland Coal Company in the first half of the twentieth century.

Adriana Trigiani Comes Home

In 2000 Adriana Trigiani, raised in Big Stone Gap, published a novel called Big Stone Gap. In 2014 she came back to direct the movie. It starred Ashley Judd, Patrick Wilson, and Whoopi Goldberg, and most of the crowd-scene extras were neighbors. Carmine's restaurant - the movie's stand-in for a corner of small-town Italy in the Blue Ridge - was a former gas station in town, and the soda fountain and wall posters from the shoot are still inside. Next door, the abandoned Mutual's Pharmacy stood in for Ave Maria Mulligan's workplace. The movie was made on a $3.5-million budget and opened in over a hundred theaters. For a town that had spent a century watching its coal industry contract, the chance to play itself on screen mattered.

Black Lung and What Comes Next

On August 16, 2018, the Big Stone Gap town council passed a resolution backing the federal Black Lung Disability Trust Fund. It was the first municipality in the United States to do so. Coal had built the town and had also poisoned its lungs - black lung disease, caused by years of inhaled coal dust, still afflicts miners and their widows in Wise County. Today the town's economy leans harder on the prison built on the ridge above it. Wallens Ridge State Prison opened in 1999 as a supermax facility and was later downgraded to high-security. Mountain Empire Community College and a King University satellite campus draw students from four counties. In March 2008 a tornado tore a one-mile path through downtown, destroying six homes and damaging forty more. The town rebuilt. It tends to.

From the Air

Located at 36.88°N, 82.75°W in Wise County, far southwestern Virginia, at the junction of U.S. Routes 23 and 58 Alternate. The town sits in a gap cut through the Cumberland Mountains, visible from the air as a small grid of streets between forested ridges, with Powell Mountain rising to the north. Nearby airports: KLNP (Lonesome Pine, Wise) is the closest at about 4 nautical miles; KTRI (Tri-Cities, TN-VA) lies about 35 nm south. Recommended viewing altitude 3,000-5,000 ft AGL in clear weather to see the town set against the steep terrain. The Trail of the Lonesome Pine OutdoorDrama venue and the Southwest Virginia Museum are downtown landmarks.