Dun Troddan

archaeologyscotlandhighlandsiron-ageancient-architecture
4 min read

In about 1720 an antiquarian traveller climbed up through Gleann Beag and sketched Dun Troddan as it then stood: a complete broch tower more than 12 metres high, described in the accompanying note as 'by far the most entire of any in that Country.' That sketch is now one of the most important documents in Scottish archaeology, because the tower the artist drew no longer exists in that form. What survives, after a few centuries of weather and one episode of stone-robbing, is still enough to walk up nine stone steps and stand on a landing that was built when the Roman Empire still ran most of the world south of Hadrian's Wall.

The Sketch That Captured A Tower

The early eighteenth-century drawing of Dun Troddan matters because it preserves the lost upper architecture: the parapet, the full taper of the wall, the way the broch silhouette met the sky. The artist saw something that nobody has seen since. Whether the same stone-robbing that gutted Dun Telve in 1722 also damaged Dun Troddan is not entirely clear, but the broch was certainly reduced significantly during the eighteenth century, and the sketch captures it just before that loss. Today only the lower portion of the wall stands - enough to show all the structural principles, but not the soaring upward sweep that made eighteenth-century visitors stop and stare. The drawing remains, hanging in archives in Edinburgh, the record of a building that briefly straddled prehistory and the Enlightenment.

Geometry In Drystone

The central court of Dun Troddan is almost a perfect circle, 8.56 metres across. Built into the floor of the hearth is a broken quern-stone - a heavy disc of rock used for grinding grain by hand - that someone, two millennia ago, recycled into part of the fireplace rather than leaving it whole. The wall is hollow-faced like all brochs: two concentric drystone shells with an intramural void. An internal doorway in the surviving high section opens onto a stairway, and nine stairs lead up to a first-floor landing 5.7 metres long, set 2.4 metres above the central court. At the end of the landing the first step of the next flight is still visible, where the stair would have continued upward to higher floors. The whole thing is held together by gravity, friction, and the careful selection of stones whose weight stabilised what came below.

Sister Towers In A Hidden Glen

Dun Troddan stands on a level rock platform north of the Abhainn a' Ghlinne Bhig, on a steeper slope than its neighbour - reached by a short, sharp footpath up from the road. Dun Telve lies 470 metres west, easy walking distance, and the semi-broch Dun Grugaig sits roughly two kilometres southeast in the upper part of the same valley. Three Iron Age monuments within a small Highland glen suggests something more than ordinary settlement - probably a clustering of elite or fortified dwellings, possibly belonging to one extended community, possibly competing or related households. Whatever the original social arrangement, the brochs were clearly meant to be seen by each other and by anyone approaching from the coast or down the valley from the east.

What Visitors Find Now

Modern visitors usually walk up from the small parking area on the single-track road through Gleann Beag, see Dun Telve first because it sits right beside the verge, then trek the few hundred metres uphill to Dun Troddan. The site is exposed; the wind off the Sound of Sleat funnels up the valley and through the broken wall. Inside, the curved drystone bowl feels like an amphitheatre. Standing in the middle of the central court and looking up at the surviving wall, you can imagine the original timber upper floors, the smoke from the hearth rising, the noise of children and dogs and grinding querns. The view from the entrance, southeast down Gleann Beag, has not changed in any meaningful way for two thousand years - which is, when you think about it, an almost unique kind of preservation.

From the Air

Located at 57.1943 N, 5.5868 W in Gleann Beag, the parallel southern valley of Glenelg, just 470 metres east of its sister broch Dun Telve. Both brochs lie in the floor of a narrow east-west glen surrounded by steep slopes rising to 600-700 m. The two towers are easily picked out together from the air as small circular masonry shapes near the burn. Nearest aerodrome: Inverness (EGPE) approximately 105 km east-northeast. The semi-broch Dun Grugaig is a further 2 km east-southeast in the upper glen. Mountain landmarks: Beinn a' Chapuill 760 m to the south, Beinn Sgritheall 974 m southwest, the Five Sisters of Kintail ridge running east-west to the north. Approach at 2000-3000 ft AGL gives a good simultaneous view of both Glenelg brochs. The valley is narrow and steep-walled - this is not an area for low-level flight without local knowledge. Best lit in mid-morning when sun strikes the towers from the east-southeast.

Nearby Stories