Hango Hill

historyexecution-sitemanx-heritageisle-of-man
4 min read

Sweet Christ. Sweet Jesus. Cleare cleare cleare. Those were the last words of Illiam Dhone, recorded by the man who carried them out, spoken on this small green mound above the sea on 2 January 1663. He was fifty-four years old. He had served as the island's Receiver General. And he died here because the politics of the English Civil War, and the bitter Restoration that followed, finally caught up with a Manxman who had tried to spare his island a worse fate. Hango Hill is a quiet place today, a grassy hump beside the coast road between Castletown and Derbyhaven, but its name comes from the Norse hanga-haugr, gallows hill, and Manx memory has not forgotten what happened on it.

A Hill With Two Names

The mound itself is older than any of the stories told about it. A bronze flat axe found here hints at a Bronze Age burial, and there is a long tradition of low coastal hills being used as both meeting places and places of execution. The Norse settlers who named it knew exactly what it was for. Hanga-haugr is not a poetic flourish; it is a description of function. By 1604 the parish burials register records two men, William Keruish and Robert Calow, hanged here on 31 August for murder and buried face-down in front of the porch of nearby Kirk Malew. The hill kept that grim purpose for another two generations. After 1663 the gallows fell silent, and executions on the island moved up the road to Castle Rushen.

The Man They Called Brown-Haired William

Illiam Dhone — Brown-Haired William, in the Manx — was born William Christian in 1608 into a leading island family. He rose to become Receiver General, one of the highest offices on the Isle of Man. When the English Civil War swept the British Isles, the Stanley Earl of Derby, who held the island as Lord of Mann, fought for the king. He was captured and executed in 1651. Parliamentary forces moved on the Isle of Man, and Christian, faced with a fight the island could not win, surrendered it to Parliament. To many Manx people he had spared homes, harvests and lives. To the Derby family he had betrayed their cause. When Charles II returned to the throne in 1660, the new king was not in a forgiving mood. Christian was arrested, tried under questionable jurisdiction, and on a January morning marched out of Castle Rushen to the small hill above the bay.

A Cold January Morning

Accounts of the execution survive in part because the man in charge of it wrote them down. Christian was shot here on 2 January 1663, kneeling, his last words a stammered prayer that has come down through three centuries: Sweet Christ. Sweet Jesus. Cleare cleare cleare. The killing was almost certainly illegal under Manx law, which had its own protections and procedures that the Restoration courts simply rolled past. To this day Illiam Dhone is held in Manx national memory as a victim of post-Restoration injustice, the kind of figure other nations turn into a statue. His ghost is said to wander the road between Castle Rushen and Hango Hill, walking the route he was marched on his last morning. The Stanley earls, perhaps sensing the awkwardness of the place, built a little battlemented summerhouse called Mount Strange on the summit afterward, and held the first "Derby" horse races along the dunes east toward Langness. Coastal erosion has eaten most of the building. About a third of it survives.

What Remains

Today the hill is modest — a green rise, the broken stub of the old hall, a plaque, the sound of the sea on one side and the traffic of the A5 on the other. King William's College stands across the road, founded much later by a trust set up in 1668 with the estate of Hango Hill itself. Each January, Manx nationalists gather here for an annual speech in Manx Gaelic, a language Illiam Dhone would have known in its fullest form. Cars pull off the verge. Wreaths appear on the broken wall. The wind off Castletown Bay does what the wind here has always done. It is not a grand monument. It does not need to be. The island remembers without needing prompting, which is perhaps the most enduring kind of memorial.

From the Air

Hango Hill sits at 54.077N, 4.638W, on the coast immediately east of Castletown and right beside the A5. Best viewed from low altitude on approach to Ronaldsway (EGNS), 1.5 NM to the northeast. King William's College, with its tall central tower and chapel, is the obvious landmark directly inland; the broken stub of the Mount Strange summerhouse sits on a low green mound between the road and the shoreline of Castletown Bay.

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