Hayasi Department Store Level 1
Hayasi Department Store Level 1 — Photo: Wpcpey | CC BY 4.0

Hayashi Department Store

architecturejapanese-colonialhistoric-sitescommercetaiwan
4 min read

When Hayashi Department Store opened on December 5, 1932, it was one of only two buildings in all of Taiwan with a working elevator. That single fact tells you something about the ambitions of Japanese-era Tainan. The city was already ancient by the standards of its colonial rulers — the oldest urban center in Taiwan, with three centuries of Dutch, Ming, and Qing history layered beneath its streets. But the five-story building that Taiwanese locals quickly nicknamed the 'Five-story Building' announced that the city intended to be modern, too.

The Most Modern Building in Town

In 1932, a five-story department store with an elevator was a genuine novelty in Taiwan. Hayashi Department Store opened its doors in Tainan City, Tainan Prefecture, during the height of Japanese colonial investment in the island's commercial infrastructure. The store was named for its Japanese founders and designed to bring the department store experience — the kind Osaka and Tokyo shoppers had known for decades — to the southern Taiwanese market. Customers could browse goods across five floors, ride an elevator, and take in views of the surrounding city from an observation deck. For a generation of Tainan residents, the Five-story Building was a landmark as much as a shop: the tallest structure many of them had ever entered, a symbol of what the colonial city was becoming.

Fire from the Sky

The building did not survive the war intact. In the final months of World War II, American aircraft bombed Tainan as part of the broader air campaign against Japanese-held Taiwan. The Hayashi Department Store was hit. Exactly how severely the building was damaged is part of the postwar memory of the structure — it stood, but it no longer functioned as a department store. For decades afterward, the building passed through various uses and states of partial neglect, its five stories still recognizable from the street but stripped of the energy and commerce that had defined it. Tainan's older residents remembered what it had been. The building waited.

The Long Restoration

Restoration work began in 2006, a years-long project of structural repair, historical research, and architectural reconstruction. The goal was not to turn the building into a museum of itself but to return it to something like its original function — a working commercial building that preserved the aesthetic language of 1930s Japanese colonial commercial architecture. The project required navigating both the physical challenges of restoring a wartime-damaged structure and the historical questions of what the original looked like in detail. Eight years of work culminated on June 14, 2014, when then-Tainan Mayor William Lai presided over the official reopening. The building was alive again.

Five Floors of Then and Now

Today the Hayashi Department Store sells contemporary goods alongside curated displays of local culture. The top floor hosts exhibitions on local farming traditions and handicrafts — the agricultural heritage of the Tainan plain that existed long before department stores arrived. A Western-style cafeteria and an observation deck complete the picture, offering views across a city that has grown enormously since 1932. The original elevator has been restored. Visitors who step into it are doing what Tainan residents did in an age when such things were extraordinary — ascending through a building that was once the tallest place in town, in a city that was already very old before it was ever modern.

From the Air

The Hayashi Department Store is located at approximately 22.9918°N, 120.2023°E in the West Central District of Tainan, within easy walking distance of Tainan Station. Its five-story profile is visible from the air amid the lower surrounding commercial buildings of central Tainan. For the best view, a pass at 1,500–2,500 feet over the city center reveals the historic district's mixed architectural character. The nearest major airport is RCKH (Kaohsiung International), about 25 km to the southwest. Tainan Airport (RCNN) is the closer regional option, approximately 5 km to the west. The surrounding plain is flat and low-lying, with excellent visibility in clear weather.