A panoramic photograph of Kanawha Falls on the Kanawha River, just downstream from the river's origin at Gauley Bridge in Fayette County, WV. Image compiled with Autostitch from 12 individual photographs, taken with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50 mounted to a Panosaurus tripod head.
A panoramic photograph of Kanawha Falls on the Kanawha River, just downstream from the river's origin at Gauley Bridge in Fayette County, WV. Image compiled with Autostitch from 12 individual photographs, taken with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50 mounted to a Panosaurus tripod head. — Photo: Ken Thomas | Public domain

Kanawha Falls

WaterfallsKanawha RiverWest VirginiaHydroelectric power
4 min read

The fish above the falls are different from the fish below. Kanawha Falls has been blocking aquatic movement up the Kanawha River for more than a million years, and over that span the watershed above the falls has evolved into a distinct biological community. Above the falls: fewer species overall, a high proportion found nowhere else in the world, and an unusually large number of non-natives that humans introduced. Below: the standard mix of Ohio River drainage species. The falls themselves are not particularly tall - the diagonal sandstone ledge across the river drops perhaps twenty feet - but they are absolute as a barrier. They divide more than fish. The flat-water barge navigation industry ends below the falls. The world-class whitewater rafting industry of the New River Gorge begins above. The same line of rock that sorts the fish sorts the boats.

The Sandstone Ledge

The falls are not a single straight drop but a long diagonal sandstone ledge that runs across the river at an angle, with the highest portion on the southern bank tapering down toward the northern. The geology dates from the Carboniferous period; the same sandstone bed runs through much of the Allegheny Plateau and outcrops as cliff faces and waterfalls wherever river erosion has exposed it. The Kanawha cuts across the bed here, and the harder sandstone has resisted downcutting while the river above and below has cut deeper. The result is a wide cataract: the river is hundreds of feet across at the falls, with the water spreading over the entire ledge in a long curtain rather than the concentrated plunge of a vertical waterfall.

Where Three Rivers Become One

Just upstream from Kanawha Falls, two of the most consequential rivers in Appalachia merge to form the Kanawha. The New River, which runs upward from North Carolina through the famous New River Gorge of West Virginia, joins the Gauley River, which drains the mountains east of Charleston. At Gauley Bridge, these two rivers become the Kanawha. About a mile downstream, the new Kanawha River reaches the falls. So the falls are not just a barrier - they are the place where the assembled flow of two large mountain rivers makes its first major change of character. Above the falls: mountain torrents, gorge whitewater, the Gauley's notorious Class V rapids during fall dam releases. Below the falls: a navigable lowland river that will carry barge traffic all the way to the Ohio.

Hydroelectric Generation

The first hydroelectric plant at the falls dates from around 1899, making it one of the oldest continuously operating hydro stations in the American East. The plant has been rebuilt and modernized multiple times. In 2010, a major rehabilitation began, with the facility returning to full operation in 2012. The dam at the falls raises the upstream water slightly to feed the powerhouse intakes, but the falls remain mostly visible as natural cataract - the dam is a low structure that does not eliminate the waterfall's character. The Glen Ferris Inn, immediately above the falls on the south bank, originally housed managers and workers from the hydroelectric and aluminum operations that the falls' power made possible.

The Flood Memory

The U.S. Geological Survey has continuously measured streamflow at Kanawha Falls since 1877 - one of the longest hydrologic records in the United States. The record shows how flood discharges have changed across more than 140 years. In the twentieth century, construction of three reservoirs on the upstream rivers - Claytor and Bluestone Lakes on the New, and Summersville Lake on the Gauley - cut the estimated 100-year flood discharge at the falls roughly in half. The reservoirs trap floodwater, releasing it slowly, and dramatically reduce the peak flows that historically devastated downstream communities. The falls themselves, which once carried apocalyptic floods at irregular intervals, now carry a more managed flow. The river is calmer than it used to be, by design.

Flying Over the Junction

From the air, Kanawha Falls is a wide white line across a broad river, with the small communities of Glen Ferris on the south bank and Kanawha Falls (the community shares the name with the natural feature) on the north. The Gauley and New rivers meet about a mile upstream at Gauley Bridge, visible from cruising altitude as a Y of three water surfaces becoming one. The Glen Ferris Inn occupies its small flat on the south bank above the falls. The hydroelectric powerhouse sits at the falls themselves. Downstream, U.S. Route 60 follows the broader Kanawha as it begins its eighty-mile run toward Charleston and beyond to the Ohio.

From the Air

Located at 38.15°N, 81.21°W on the Kanawha River, with Glen Ferris on the south bank and the community of Kanawha Falls on the north. The Gauley and New rivers join at Gauley Bridge about 1 nm upstream. The diagonal sandstone ledge of the falls is visible from the air as a white line across the river. Nearest airports: Yeager Airport (KCRW) at Charleston about 25 nm northwest, Raleigh County Memorial (KBKW) at Beckley about 20 nm south. Best photographed from 2,500-4,000 feet AGL where the river junction, falls, and Glen Ferris settlement are all in frame.