On Saturday 22 March 2015, a black hearse carried a king through Market Bosworth on its way to be buried. Richard III had been dead for 530 years by then, killed two miles south of the town at the Battle of Bosworth in 1485, the final and decisive engagement of the Wars of the Roses. His skeleton, rediscovered under a Leicester car park in 2012, was passing through the town it had never quite left in local memory. A floor plaque in front of the war memorial now marks where the cortege paused. It is the kind of detail you only find in places where history is a Sunday outing rather than something kept behind glass.
Bronze Age people lived on this hill before there was anything called England. A Roman villa sat near what is now Barton Road. An Anglo-Saxon village named for a man called Bosa took root here in the eighth century, and bosaworth meant Bosa's enclosure in Old English. When the Normans arrived in 1066, both manors at Bosworth were granted by William the Conqueror to Robert de Beaumont, Count of Meulan and the first Earl of Leicester, a piece of land moving from one ruling class to another in the way England's land has always moved. The village changed hands again by marriage dowry, ending up with the English branch of the French House of Harcourt. Then on 12 May 1285, Edward I gave Sir William Harcourt a royal charter to hold a weekly market every Wednesday, and the place became Market Bosworth, a town by common definition. The two oldest buildings in the town centre, St Peter's Church and the Red Lion pub, both date from the fourteenth century. Some institutions keep going.
On 22 August 1485, Richard III and Henry Tudor brought their armies to the fields just south of the town. By the end of the day Richard was dead, the last English king killed in battle, and Henry was on his way to being crowned Henry VII at Westminster. The Wars of the Roses, a generation of dynastic killing between the houses of Lancaster and York, ended in those fields. The Tudor dynasty began. Henry's grandson Henry VIII and great-granddaughter Elizabeth I would shape England in ways still visible. The battlefield itself is now an interpretive centre with the kind of careful archaeological signage that British heritage does well, but the deeper truth is in the geography: stand in Market Bosworth and look south, and you are looking at the spot where the medieval world quietly ended.
In 1567 the manor was sold to Sir Wolstan Dixie, Lord Mayor of London, who never bothered to visit the place he owned. His grand-nephew, also Wolstan Dixie, finally moved here in 1608 and got on with the things absentee landlords had not done: building a manor house, laying out a park, and founding the free Dixie Grammar School. The Dixies stayed for centuries, accumulating 13 baronets of varying competence. The fourth baronet, also named Wolstan, was the most colourful, and not in the flattering sense. In 1732 a 22-year-old Samuel Johnson, who had just left Oxford because he could not afford to stay, took a job teaching at the grammar school. He lasted four months. Johnson, who would go on to write the dictionary and a great deal else, could not bear what he called the boorish 4th Baronet. By 1885, the eleventh baronet, nicknamed Beau Dixie, was forced to auction the family hall to pay his gambling debts.
For a town of 2,097 people, Market Bosworth has produced or educated a striking range of notable inhabitants. Thomas Hooker, born just up the road at Markfield in 1586, would emigrate to America and found the colony of Connecticut. Lady Florence Dixie, born in 1855 to the eleventh baronet's family, became a travel writer, war correspondent in southern Africa, and one of the early voices of British feminism. The folk guitarist Davey Graham, who helped reinvent how the acoustic guitar could be played and whose influence runs through everyone from Bert Jansch to Jimmy Page, was born at the local infirmary in 1940 and is commemorated with a blue plaque. The town also educated Colin Pitchfork, who in 1988 became the first person convicted of murder using DNA fingerprinting, after the bodies of two Leicestershire schoolgirls led police to his door. And in 2023 Jake Dennis, who grew up here, won the Formula E World Championship. Some of these stories are heroic. Some are tragic. All are now part of what the town carries with it.
The town's cattle market closed in 1996, ending a tradition begun seven centuries earlier under that 1285 royal charter. What survives is more decorative. In 1985, on the 500th anniversary of the battle, Market Bosworth entered the Britain in Bloom competition and decked itself in flowers, an instinct that turned into a permanent committee and culminated in a national Gold Award in 2012. Market Bosworth Country Park and Bosworth Water Park offer the kind of outdoor afternoons that English market towns excel at, and the heritage Battlefield Line Railway still runs steam-era trains at weekends from Shackerstone through Market Bosworth station to Shenton, near the battlefield itself. The bus to Leicester runs hourly. The Ashby Canal still carries narrowboats past the old marina. Almost nothing about the modern visit hints that this peaceful place produced a Connecticut, a feminist, a folk-guitar revolution, a forensic milestone, and a world motor-racing champion.
Market Bosworth, Leicestershire (52.62 N, 1.40 W). The town sits 12 miles west of Leicester, just north of the A447 and roughly two miles north of the Battle of Bosworth battlefield interpretation centre near Shenton. East Midlands Airport (EGNX) is 20 miles north-east; Birmingham Airport (EGBB) is 25 miles south-west. From low altitude the town is visible as a tight cluster of stone and brick around a central market square and the prominent tower of St Peter's Church. The Ashby Canal threads past to the west; the heritage Battlefield Line Railway runs north-south just east of the town.