Mauds Landing

Beaches of Western Australia
4 min read

A line of black, salt-eaten timber stumps still juts from the sand a few kilometres north of Coral Bay, marching out toward the water and stopping at nothing. They are the bones of a jetty that once reached 450 metres into the Indian Ocean, and they are almost all that remains of the port that wasn't — twice over. Mauds Landing was meant to be a shipping town, then a marina resort, and it became neither. Instead it became something quieter and, in the end, far more important: a stretch of empty beach that an entire state fought to keep empty.

The Port That Almost Was

The place takes its name from a schooner, the Maud, and the town-site reserve was set aside in 1896. The plans were ambitious for such a remote shore: that 450-metre jetty, capped with a T-head, plus a tramway, a well, and a woolshed, all built to ship wool, sheep, and cattle out of the Gascoyne stations to markets down the coast. For half a century it worked, after a fashion. But the trade never grew the way its backers hoped, and when shipping ceased around 1947 the jetty was dismantled — its timbers carted 85 kilometres north to Norwegian Bay by the North West Whaling Company, repurposed for a different industry entirely. Schemes for oil exploration and fish processing were floated and sank. By 1969 the old reserve was partly folded into the lease of Cardabia Station, and Mauds Landing slipped off the maps.

Two Hundred Million Dollars on the Sand

In 2000, the empty beach drew a far grander vision. Coral Coast Marina Developments proposed a 200-million-dollar resort and marina at Mauds Landing — hotels, canals, and berths cut into the shore directly behind one of the longest fringing coral reefs on Earth. To its promoters it was opportunity; to a growing chorus of scientists, fishers, and ordinary West Australians, it was a threat to the very thing that made Ningaloo extraordinary. The reef here sits astonishingly close to the beach, a ribbon of living coral you can reach by wading. Pour a marina behind it, the critics warned, and you risk the silt, the runoff, and the slow strangulation of a wonder that had survived untouched for millennia.

The Reef That Was Won

What followed became the largest environmental campaign in Western Australia's history. The novelist Tim Winton lent it his voice and donated his 25,000-dollar Premier's Award prize money to the cause. In December 2002 roughly 15,000 people marched through Fremantle — a crowd the mayor called the largest in living memory — carrying a single demand: save Ningaloo. By mid-2003 the pressure had climbed to the top, and Premier Geoff Gallop travelled to Coral Bay to deliver the verdict in person. The marina would not proceed. The government would instead pursue World Heritage protection for the coast — a status the Ningaloo Coast finally achieved in 2011. A beach almost no one had heard of had become the place where a state decided what kind of future it wanted.

Left to the Turtles

Today Mauds Landing is given back, quietly, to its oldest residents. The beach curves roughly 8.5 kilometres from the point of the bay, gently north-east, ending near Oyster Bridge where a band of beachrock reef meets the sand. Between December and March, endangered green and loggerhead turtles drag themselves ashore here in the dark to lay their eggs, and the beach is treated as a sacred place by many in Coral Bay for exactly that reason. Visitors are asked to keep at least 15 metres back from nesting turtles and to switch off torches and camera flashes, which can disorient hatchlings scrambling toward the sea. Four-wheel-drivers come for the superb beach fishing. The jetty piles still stand offshore — not a ruin to mourn, but a marker of everything this coast chose not to become.

From the Air

Mauds Landing lies at 23.11°S, 113.78°E, about 3 km north of Coral Bay on the Ningaloo coast of Western Australia. From the air it appears as a long, gently curving beach — roughly 8.5 km from the point of Bateman Bay north-east toward Oyster Bridge — fronted by the brilliant turquoise of the Ningaloo lagoon and the white line of the fringing reef just offshore. The remains of the historic jetty form a faint row of piles extending from the shore. Coral Bay's settlement and airstrip lie immediately south. The nearest airports with scheduled service are Learmonth (ICAO YPLM) near Exmouth to the north and Carnarvon (ICAO YCAR) to the south; Coral Bay itself has a charter airstrip. Skies are typically clear with afternoon southerlies. Recommended sightseeing altitude is 1,000–2,500 ft to trace the reef passages and the curve of the nesting beach; fly with the sun high to bring out the lagoon colour, and keep clear of the beach during the turtle nesting season.