Michael Reardon (climber)

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4 min read

On the afternoon of 13 July 2007, Michael Reardon climbed a sea cliff on the north shore of Valentia Island called Dohilla. He climbed it without rope or partner, the way he had climbed thousands of other routes. He topped out, walked back along the cliff edge to descend a different line, and was photographed by his friend Damon Corso doing both. Then, in a moment captured between frames, a wave that should not have reached where he was standing did reach him. He was forty-two years old. His body was never recovered. The cliffs are still there, and the wave that took him still arrives at the same place from time to time, the way Atlantic waves do.

What He Did

Reardon was a free-solo climber, a small fraternity of people who climb significant rock without ropes, harnesses, or partners. He came late to the sport, taking it seriously only in his thirties, but once he committed he produced a body of work that drew the attention of the wider climbing world. At Joshua Tree National Park in California he made a thousand individual solo ascents in thirty days, including a hundred first-ascent solos at grades up to 5.12. He onsight-soloed Outrage, a 5.13a route at Boney Bluffs in the Santa Monica Mountains, meaning he climbed it first try without rehearsal. He onsighted 214 routes in England and 240 in Ireland, including a first ascent at Ailladie in County Clare. National Geographic named him Adventurer of the Year for 2005.

The Long Solo on the Palisades

His most striking single feat may have been on the Palisade Traverse, a high-altitude scramble across the Sierra Nevada in California that links a series of fourteen-thousand-foot peaks. The previous unroped traverse had taken twelve days. Reardon, working alone, completed it in twenty-two hours. The achievement was largely off the climbing media's radar at the time because it was difficult to verify and difficult to film, but other climbers understood what it meant. It required not only the ability to move efficiently over technical terrain at altitude, but the willingness to stay focused for an entire day and into the next, without backup, with consequences for any error that did not allow recovery.

Dohilla

By 2007 he had begun to film a documentary about solo climbing on Irish sea cliffs. Dohilla, on the rough north shore of Valentia Island, was the kind of location he favored: low-altitude, geologically interesting, and quietly serious. He climbed his line that afternoon, came down, and was photographed standing at the base of the cliff. A rogue wave, larger than the swell pattern around it, swept up the shelf and took him into the water. The Valentia lifeboat launched within minutes, joined by a rescue helicopter, cliff rescue teams, and local people from Knightstown and Portmagee. The search ran along the coast until dark, and again the next day, and again the day after. He was not found. The Atlantic, which had carried the first transatlantic cable ashore at Foilhommerum a few miles south, kept him.

What Remained

His daughter was thirteen at the time. The climbing community lost not only one of its most prolific soloists but one of its more thoughtful voices; Reardon wrote and spoke publicly about the choices involved in his discipline, the discipline itself, and the cost when those choices failed. The Irish climbing community in particular treated his death gently, with a memorial plaque eventually placed at the Iveragh coast. He had loved Ireland enough to come back, and to choose its quieter cliffs over the more famous walls he could have visited anywhere in the world. Valentia Island, where so many ocean stories converge, holds one more.

From the Air

Dohilla, the cliff where Reardon was last seen, lies on the north shore of Valentia Island at roughly 51.92 N, 10.36 W. Best viewed at 1,500-3,000 ft. The north coast cliffs face the open Atlantic and are exposed to swells from any direction in the western quadrant. The same coast also holds the 385-million-year-old tetrapod trackways at Dohilla, slabs of Devonian rock that record the earliest known footprints of land vertebrates. Nearest airport is Kerry (EIKY), 38 nm northeast. Sea state along these cliffs can change in minutes.