Relief location map of Ireland
Equirectangular map projection on WGS 84 datum, with N/S stretched 170%
Geographic limits:

West: 11.0° W
East: 5.0° W
North: 55.6° N
South: 51.2° N
Relief location map of Ireland Equirectangular map projection on WGS 84 datum, with N/S stretched 170% Geographic limits: West: 11.0° W East: 5.0° W North: 55.6° N South: 51.2° N — Photo: Nilfanion | CC BY-SA 3.0

Rinn an Chaisleáin

Blasket Islandsmedieval Irelandburial groundsGreat FamineFerriter family
4 min read

The lease, as folk memory has it, was paid in hawks — two of them every year, delivered to the Earls of Desmond by the Norman-Irish Ferriter family in exchange for the right to hold the Blasket Islands from the end of the 13th century onward. That arrangement gives a sense of how remote Castle Point felt to medieval mainland Ireland: a place worth so little, and reached so seldom, that two birds would do for rent. The Ferriters built a small castle here on the point just west of the harbour on Great Blasket. Nothing of that castle remains above ground. What remains is a graveyard — and the names of the people who needed it.

Two Hawks a Year

The Feiritéar — Anglicized as Ferriter — were Cambro-Norman settlers who took root on the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula not long after the Norman conquest of Ireland. By the late 13th century they held a lease on the Blaskets from the Earls of Desmond, and later from the Boyle Earls of Cork. The yearly rent of two hawks reflects what the islands could offer: rough pasture, seabird cliffs, fish in the surrounding sea, and not much else. The Ferriters built their small castle on the point at Rinn an Chaisleáin, which simply means "point of the castle" in Irish. The family produced one of the great Gaelic poets of the 17th century, Piaras Feiritéar, who was hanged in Killarney in 1653 during the Cromwellian conquest.

The Soup School

In 1840, during a period when Protestant missionary societies were active in Catholic Ireland, a small school was built at Rinn an Chaisleáin using stones taken from the ruined Ferriter castle. The name that has stuck to such places — "soup school" — captures what they offered: free food, sometimes literally a meal of soup, in exchange for children attending Protestant religious instruction. The Great Famine (1845–1852) made the offer brutally hard to refuse. Some Catholic families accepted; many did not, and the practice generated lasting bitterness. The Blasket soup school closed in 1852, the same year the Famine officially ended. The stones had been dismantled twice now — once from a castle, once from a school — and the site moved on to its next purpose.

When the Sea Would Not Let Them Go Home

Every Blasket Islander traced ancestry to the mainland villages of Dunquin or Ventry, and tradition demanded burial there, in consecrated ground with the family. But the sea did not always cooperate. When a death came during weeks of bad weather — and weeks of bad weather were not rare — corpses could not be carried across the Blasket Sound. They were kept on the island, sometimes for many days, while families waited for a break in the swell. When the wait grew too long, when waiting became impossible, the body was buried at Rinn an Chaisleáin, on this point of land that had once held a castle and once held a school. The site became a calluragh — unconsecrated burial ground. It received the people who could not be taken home: unbaptized infants, people who died by their own hand, sailors washed up from shipwrecks.

Stones for Names

Some of the graves at Rinn an Chaisleáin are marked by stones — undressed slabs, slightly tilted, weather-worn. The dead here represent the categories of human suffering that medieval and early modern Catholic practice could not always accommodate within consecrated ground: the very young, the despairing, the foreign drowned. They were given what the islanders could give them, which was a place on the headland, near the harbour, within sight of home. The community took care of its own this way for centuries. When the last twenty-two Blasket Islanders were taken off the island in 1953, that practice ended too. The stones remain. The names are mostly lost. The headland keeps the dead it was given, in the place where a castle once was.

From the Air

Coordinates 52.1053°N, 10.5110°W, on the north side of Great Blasket Island just west of the harbour and the abandoned Lower Village. The point is recognizable as a low rocky headland projecting north into the Blasket Sound. Best viewed at 1,500–3,000 ft AGL. The island lies 2 km west of Dunmore Head across the Sound. Kerry Airport (EIKY) is approximately 65 km east. Atlantic weather here changes rapidly — fog and low cloud are common.