Canadian border inspection station in Huntingdon BC
Canadian border inspection station in Huntingdon BC — Photo: Wbaron | CC BY-SA 3.0

Sumas–Huntingdon Border Crossing

Canada–United States border crossings1896 establishments in British Columbia1896 establishments in Washington (state)Buildings and structures in Whatcom County, WashingtonTransport in Abbotsford, British ColumbiaBorder historySmuggling
3 min read

The old United States customs house at Sumas no longer sits at the border. It stands a few blocks south, at 131 Harrison Street, because in the late 1980s somebody decided that 714 tons of ornate brickwork was worth saving. Rather than knock the building down to make room for a replacement, crews jacked it up and moved it intact. That decision says something about this stretch of the 49th parallel, where Washington State Route 9 becomes British Columbia Highway 11: almost nothing here has ever been thrown away, only shifted sideways and repurposed. The crossing itself has been continuously in business, in one form or another, since the 1890s.

A Line Across a Flat Place

The boundary was settled in 1846, but decades passed before there was much on either side of it worth guarding. What made this particular spot matter was geometry. The land here is dead flat — the Halkomelem name behind Sumas is usually rendered as "land without trees" or "big flat opening" — and flat ground is where roads and railways naturally want to go. The same flatness has a cost. This is floodplain, drained by the Nooksack on one side and toward the Fraser on the other, and water has been recorded rising over it for as long as anyone has been writing things down. On 15 November 2021, an atmospheric river demonstrated the point with brutal thoroughness: roughly 85 percent of the homes in the town of Sumas were damaged, and hundreds of residents had to be rescued after a partial evacuation. The customs lanes sit on that same prairie.

Customs from a Front Room

Canadian enforcement began as one man working out of his own house. When the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush of the late 1850s pulled prospectors north, police reported goods crossing freely with nobody to collect duty on them. John Musselwhite became the first customs officer at Upper Sumas around 1890, operating from his private dwelling some 20 kilometres northeast of today's lanes. His successor, T. Fraser York, took the job in 1893 — part-time, because that was all the traffic justified. Canada opened a proper border station at Huntingdon in 1896. Then the bureaucracy began its long shuffle: York moved to the newly created Port of Abbotsford in 1912, which was itself housed in a spare room of the Canadian Pacific station; Huntingdon was demoted to an outpost that same year; Abbotsford closed in 1932; and Huntingdon was finally elevated to a port in its own right in 1948.

Opium, Diamonds, and the Closed Door

The railway changed the stakes. In 1891 the Bellingham Bay and British Columbia Railroad reached the line and met the CP, and almost immediately the crossing became one of the busiest smuggling routes on the western border. Opium moved through. So did diamonds. So did people — Chinese migrants shut out of the United States by the exclusion laws Congress had passed in 1882 and renewed thereafter, which barred Chinese labourers from entering legally and so guaranteed that they would enter some other way. They were, for the most part, labourers going around a door that American law had bolted against them by race. J. F. Flanagan took up duty as Sumas's first American customs officer that same year, 1891. Prohibition later added liquor to the traffic, and the station was upgraded in 1932 in response.

Four Buildings and a Move

The American side has cycled through its architecture with some inventiveness. Customs rented space from 1907; when the road through Huntingdon was relocated in 1913 and left the office awkwardly stranded, a new station went up on the east side of Cherry Street the following year, with part of the ground floor leased out as an automotive repair shop. That building gave way to the 1932 upgrade, which in turn became inadequate by 1988 — and became the one they moved rather than demolished. The current American station was finished in February 1990. Canada's sequence runs in parallel: a concrete station in the 1930s, a brick-faced replacement in the mid-1950s, and the twin-wing facility standing today, opened in 1992. A NEXUS lane arrived in 2012 and was extended by 1.3 kilometres between 2021 and 2023. Officially, the Canadian office is Abbotsford–Huntingdon. It never closes, and neither does the American side.

From the Air

The Sumas–Huntingdon crossing sits at 49.0024° N, 122.2655° W, essentially astride the 49th parallel, where Washington State Route 9 meets British Columbia Highway 11. From 2,000 to 4,000 feet the border itself is the most striking feature in view: a dead-straight cleared swath running east and west to the horizon across otherwise continuous farmland, with the customs plazas as a bright interruption where the highways meet it. North of the line lies Sumas Prairie and the diked lowland of Abbotsford; south lies the town of Sumas, population under 1,600. Mount Baker rises about 25 nautical miles southeast and is the single best orientation landmark in the region. Nearby airports are CYXX (Abbotsford International) roughly 5 NM northwest with a long runway and full services, KBLI (Bellingham International) about 15 NM southwest, and CYNJ (Langley Regional) to the west. Note that this is border airspace — plan any flight nearby with current charts and customs requirements. Autumn and winter bring low cloud, valley fog and, in heavy rain years, standing water across the prairie.

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