Atlantic Beach, South Carolina

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4 min read

Until the late 1960s, if you were Black and you wanted to swim in the Atlantic Ocean between Wilmington, North Carolina and Jacksonville, Florida, you had essentially one choice. The South Carolina Grand Strand - the 60-mile arc of white sand that now anchors a billion-dollar tourism economy at Myrtle Beach - was off-limits to Black families by law and by force. Hotels did not rent rooms. Restaurants did not serve meals. Beaches drew lines in the sand that were not metaphors. In the middle of that long whites-only coast sat a single block-square town that had been built deliberately to be the exception. They called it the Black Pearl. Atlantic Beach was 0.2 square miles of South Carolina shoreline where Black men and women, many of them descendants of Gullah families who had lived along the Sea Islands for 300 years, owned the hotels, ran the restaurants, set up the night clubs, and welcomed visitors that no other beach in the Carolinas would let in the door.

The Refuge on the Strand

Atlantic Beach was established in the early 1930s, in defiance of Jim Crow laws and against the social and economic gravity of the segregated South. Black entrepreneurs - many with roots in Gullah communities that stretched from coastal North Carolina down through Georgia - opened hotels, juke joints, novelty shops, and dance halls along a handful of streets just behind the dune line. Visitors came up Highway 17 from Charleston and Savannah and Jacksonville, down I-95 from Washington and Baltimore, across SC 9 from inland Carolina farms. They came to do what white beachgoers did at Myrtle: walk in the surf, dance to a band, eat seafood, kiss in the dark. The difference was that at Atlantic Beach they did not have to do any of it while measuring whether they were being watched the wrong way. Just up the road in Myrtle Beach stood Charlie's Place, where in 1950 the orchestra leader Charlie Fitzgerald was dragged from his property and beaten by Klansmen — some sixty of them fired hundreds of rounds into the building — who did not approve of how thoroughly his integrated audience was enjoying itself. Big-name Black performers - including, by various accounts, Billie Holiday, Ray Charles, James Brown, and Louis Jordan - played the town's clubs over the years. The musicology runs deep. The shag - South Carolina's official state dance - has roots in the dance floors of mixed audiences along the segregated Carolina coast.

Squeezed by Geography

What protected Atlantic Beach during segregation eventually made it economically vulnerable. The town's footprint - five blocks long, two blocks deep, hemmed in on every side by what would become the city of North Myrtle Beach - left it without the land base to expand when integration in the late 1960s and 1970s reopened the rest of the Grand Strand to Black visitors. Tourists who had once driven specifically to Atlantic Beach now had a hundred miles of beach to choose from. Many of the old hotels closed. The block-square downtown that had been the beating heart of a refuge became something quieter, a place visited mostly by descendants of the families who had stayed. The 2010 census counted 334 year-round residents; by 2020 the number was 195. The town has been resistant to annexation by North Myrtle Beach, which surrounds it on three sides and would happily absorb the oceanfront. Atlantic Beach has consistently said no.

Bikefest and the Long Argument

Since 1980, Atlantic Beach has hosted the Atlantic Beach Bikefest each Memorial Day weekend, drawing tens of thousands of Black motorcyclists from across the Southeast. It is one of the largest gatherings of Black bikers in the country, and it brings a brief crush of cash and visitors back to the small downtown blocks. It also brings, every year, a fresh round of the argument that has been going on around Atlantic Beach for nearly a century: whose town this is, who gets to enjoy it, and what kind of policing is appropriate at a Black-organized event when the same scale of crowd at a white event a few miles up the beach would draw less attention. The state has at various times tried to manage Bikefest with traffic controls and increased patrols that the town's residents and the visiting bikers have viewed, with reason, as targeted in ways that the white Harley rally on the same weekend at Myrtle Beach is not. The town has weathered every iteration. The festival continues.

The Pearl and What It Means Now

Atlantic Beach today is small, sometimes struggling, and unmistakably itself. The mayor's office runs out of a modest building on Ocean Boulevard. The original Black-owned hotels are mostly gone, though a few mid-century motels remain. The beach, the actual sand, runs along the eastern edge in a wide white strip that connects without break to the much busier sand at North Myrtle on either side. The town remains a popular destination for Black families who come because their parents and grandparents came, because the history matters, because some places earn the right to keep being themselves. The Black Pearl is, more than anything else, an act of memory - a 0.2-square-mile statement that during the long stretch of years when most of the American beach was closed to Black Americans, there was at least one place that was not. The Gullah families who built that place, and the visitors who made it work, did not need a monument. The town itself is the monument.

From the Air

Atlantic Beach sits at 33.80°N, 78.72°W on the central Grand Strand, completely surrounded on three sides by the city of North Myrtle Beach. The town's footprint is tiny - a block-square downtown plus oceanfront. From altitude it is essentially indistinguishable from the surrounding North Myrtle Beach grid, but the oceanfront is unmistakable. Recommended viewing altitude 2,000 to 3,500 feet AGL to make out the distinctive break in development pattern at the town's boundary. Nearest airports: Grand Strand Airport (KCRE) about 4 miles southwest, Myrtle Beach International (KMYR) 12 miles south. Watch for the Class D airspace around KMYR and the busy summer GA traffic out of KCRE.