Hippodrome cinema in Bo'ness
Hippodrome cinema in Bo'ness — Photo: LordHarris | CC BY-SA 4.0

Bo'ness

townsscotlandindustrial-historyroman-britainjames-watt
4 min read

Bo'ness is what the locals call it, but the full name is Borrowstounness - Beornweard's farm on the headland - and the shortening happened in the 18th century when people grew tired of the syllables. The town sits on the south bank of the Firth of Forth, seventeen miles northwest of Edinburgh, and almost every century of the last two thousand years has left a visible deposit somewhere within its boundaries. A Roman fortlet at Kinneil. A James Watt workshop. A coal mine that ran under the Forth. An ironworks still casting railings for the Palace of Westminster.

Where the Wall Ended

The Antonine Wall ran from Old Kilpatrick on the west coast of Scotland to Bo'ness on the east, and the eastern terminus was at Carriden in the north-east of the modern town. UNESCO added the wall to the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage Site in 2008. A Roman fortlet still stands at Kinneil. Roman artefacts keep emerging from local farmland, including the Bridgeness Slab - a carved stone showing a suovetaurilia (a Roman religious sacrifice of a pig, sheep, and bull) - now in the National Museum of Scotland with a replica unveiled in Kinningars Park in 2012. The Roman fort of Veluniate, somewhere under the grounds of Carriden House, is long since lost; locals say stones from the fort were used to build the mansion.

Coal, Salt, Pottery, Wally Dugs

Bo'ness was a recognised port from the 16th century. Coal sailed from here to supply Edinburgh Castle in 1548, and the harbour grew through the Industrial Revolution into a serious commercial port by the Victorian era. Customs dues moved here from Blackness in 1672. The town made salt, threw pottery (including the iconic black 'wally dugs' that sat in pairs on countless Scottish mantelpieces), and broke up ships - the Forth Ship Breaking Company would drive condemned ocean liners and warships up the beach on a high spring tide, lower the anchors, and dismantle them where they lay. Kinneil Colliery at the western edge of town employed over 1,200 people at its peak and tunnelled under the Forth to merge with the Valleyfield Colliery in Fife. It closed in 1982.

Watt's Cottage

In the grounds of Kinneil House, west of Bo'ness, sits the ruin of a small cottage where James Watt worked on his experimental steam engine. The steam cylinder of a Newcomen engine survives nearby. This is one of those modest Scottish sites where world history was actually changed - Watt's separate-condenser design made steam engines efficient enough to power the Industrial Revolution that transformed everything Bo'ness did for the next two centuries. Kinneil House itself, mentioned by Bede as Pennfahel ('Wall's end') in Pictish, sits in a public park incorporating a section of the Roman Antonine Wall. The grounds also host the Bo'ness Hill Climb, a motorsport course that hosted the first ever round of the British Hill Climb Championship in 1932.

What Still Casts

Ballantine Castings, founded as the Bo'ness Iron Company in 1856, has made ironwork for British bridges and public buildings for nearly 170 years - the fascia panels of Westminster Bridge, ironwork for the Palace of Westminster roof restoration in 2019, and replacements for the Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben). The company collapsed into administration in 2013 and was revived as Ballantine Castings the following year with government support. The Walker timberyard still cuts wood beside the Forth on the Carriden Industrial Estate. The Museum of Scottish Railways sits at the station of the Bo'ness and Kinneil Railway, the heritage line that resurrected the town's Victorian rail connection. And the children's Fair Festival, with its associated low-power radio station Valley FM that broadcasts only during the festival days, continues a tradition that has outlasted the coal mine, the shipbreakers, and the petrochemical era.

From the Air

56.017°N, 3.609°W, on the south shore of the Firth of Forth. Best approach from the north at 1,500-3,000 feet to catch the town's waterfront and the line of the former Antonine Wall. Kinneil House and the James Watt cottage sit at the western edge; Carriden and the Roman fort site lie to the north-east. Edinburgh Airport (EGPH) is 11 nautical miles south-southeast; Glasgow Airport (EGPF) about 22 nautical miles west. Blackness Castle is clearly visible 3 nautical miles east, and the Forth bridges 5 nautical miles to the east.

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