Panoramic view of the Hills of Boho with the surrounding countryside, County Fermanagh
Panoramic view of the Hills of Boho with the surrounding countryside, County Fermanagh — Photo: Youngbohemian | CC BY-SA 3.0

Boho, County Fermanagh

villagesnorthern-irelandarchaeologyhistoryantibioticsfolklore
4 min read

James Gamble, who co-founded Procter and Gamble, was born in County Fermanagh in 1803, emigrated to Ohio as a child, and is celebrated as a local son of the wider Fermanagh region. He left behind a village of perhaps a few hundred souls, a parish with three mountains, and a landscape so studded with Neolithic monuments that you could walk a kilometre in any direction and stumble across stones older than the pyramids. Boho today still has fewer people than a Cincinnati office floor, but it has something Cincinnati does not: a soil bacterium that fights superbugs, a fairy who plays the tin whistle, and a high cross from the tenth century carved with Adam and Eve.

Stones That Predate Writing

The Reyfad Stones lie in a field five hundred metres behind the Sacred Heart Church. They are Neolithic, carved with cup and ring marks similar to the ones at Newgrange, and they have been a scheduled monument since the Northern Ireland Environmental Agency designated them as SM 210:13. The carvings are at least 4,000 years old, perhaps older. Nobody knows what they mean. Walking out to see them requires permission from the landowner, a quietly Irish formality that has preserved the stones better than any fence could. In 1880, the Enniskillen archaeologist Thomas Plunkett dug into a peat bog called the coal bog at Kilnamadoo and uncovered an entire Neolithic settlement that had been buried beneath twenty-one feet of peat. In 1894, in the townland of Moylehid, he found a passage tomb at Eagle's Knoll Cairn and a ring fort. Boho is the kind of place where you can plough a field and find the Iron Age.

Three Mountains, Three Cave Systems

The parish straddles three peaks: Belmore at 398 metres, Tullybrack at 386 metres, and Knockmore at 277 metres. Beneath each runs a separate karst cave system. Reyfad Pot, under Tullybrack, is the deepest cave on the island of Ireland. Noon's Hole, under Knockmore, has the deepest daylight shaft, dropping 81 metres straight down into darkness. The Boho Caves themselves wind under Belmore. The limestone here, the Dartry Formation laid down 325 million years ago in a tropical sea, is honeycombed with passages that local people knew about for generations before the French speleologist Édouard-Alfred Martel arrived in 1895 with proper survey instruments. The Marble Arch region nearby was eventually designated the world's first International Geopark, partly because of how rare this karst landscape is in Northern Ireland.

The Folk Cure That Worked

The Reverend James McGirr served as Boho's parish priest in 1803. Locals revered him, and after his death they used soil from his gravesite as a folk remedy for infections, toothaches, and ailments their physicians could not cure. The practice persisted for generations. In recent decades, scientists at Swansea University analyzed a sample of that soil and isolated a previously unknown strain of Streptomyces bacteria, named Streptomyces sp. myrophorea, isolate McG1. The strain showed activity against carbapenem-resistant Acinetobacter baumannii, vancomycin-resistant Enterococcus faecium, and methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. The pathogens on that list cause some of the deadliest hospital infections in the world. Whether the discovery becomes a clinical drug remains to be seen, but the soil that buried a Boho priest in 1815 had been quietly producing antibiotics the whole time.

Stones, Crosses, and Curses

The High Cross at Boho graveyard stands on an eminence overlooking the Sacred Heart Church, on the site of a much older church dedicated to Saint Feadhbar, also called Saint Faber. The cross is weathered sandstone, possibly tenth century, and was moved to its current position in 1832. Its east face depicts Adam and Eve with the tree and serpent, the serpent eyeing one of the figures with what feels like personal interest. The doorway of the Church of Ireland at Farnaconnell is thought to have come from the pre-Reformation church that once stood here. Local folklore is dense with faeries, changelings, banshees, and the dark figures of saints with grudges. One story has Saint Faber cursing the castle of Baron O'Phelan, sinking it into the earth. Another tells of a changeling living with two old brothers beyond the dog's well, a wizened figure who could not walk but played the tin whistle so beautifully that listeners stood transfixed. He vanished one day, never to be heard from again.

A Rebellion Over Cattle

In the medieval period, the Boho area sometimes refused to pay tribute to Magnus MaGuidhir, the King of Fermanagh. The Maguire historian recorded one incident with relish. When Maguire sent stewards to collect cattle in lieu of tribute, the Flanagan of Toora refused, then pursued the stewards to a place now called Glack, or Aghanaglack. A fight broke out, in which Flanagan and fifteen of Maguire's men were killed. Meanwhile, the historian noted with delight, the women and youngsters of Toora simply took the cattle back. The Annals of Ulster record similar episodes stretching from 628 AD onward, with Boho appearing as Botha in entries about tribal wars, slain ollams of poetry, and parsons who died there in disputed circumstances.

Flora at the Edge of Decline

Boho has a botanical richness that is rare in Northern Ireland. Fen meadows, calcareous grasslands, limestone pavement, and bog support species that have largely vanished elsewhere on the island: small white orchid, bee orchid, mountain avens, marsh helleborine, and bird's-nest orchid, the last found in proximity to Boho Caves. Blue-eyed grass grows here despite being otherwise absent from Eurasia entirely. Swedish pouchwort, a bryophyte, was last recorded at nearby Aghahoorin in 1961. The low-intensity farming practices that survive in Boho, with hedges and dry stone walls between small fields, are part of why this diversity holds on. The fen meadow habitat covers only 0.4 percent of Northern Ireland's total land area and has dropped 18 percent in a decade. In Fermanagh, the loss is 21 percent. Boho is one of the last places it persists.

From the Air

Located at 54.35 degrees north, 7.80 degrees west, in southwest County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland, about 11 kilometres southwest of Enniskillen. Recommended viewing altitude 2,500 to 4,000 feet above terrain. The three parish mountains form a clear visual triangle: Belmore (398m), Tullybrack (386m), and Knockmore (277m). The landscape is patterned with small irregular fields, dry stone walls, and limestone pavement. Sacred Heart Church and the High Cross sit on a low eminence visible from the air. Nearest airports: St Angelo (EGAB) immediately east, Donegal (EIDL) to the northwest, Belfast International (EGAA) to the east. Expect Atlantic frontal weather year-round with frequent low cloud and rain.

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