Church of St Helen's, Kilnsea, East Riding of Yorkshire, England.A small church dating from the 1860s by William Burges.
Church of St Helen's, Kilnsea, East Riding of Yorkshire, England.A small church dating from the 1860s by William Burges. — Photo: KJP1 | CC BY-SA 4.0

Church of St Helen, Kilnsea

churchvictorian-architecturewilliam-burgescoastal-erosion
3 min read

The first St Helen's stood near the cliff edge. Between 1826 and 1831 the North Sea took it, stone by stone, as it had already taken the graveyard. The villagers of Kilnsea watched their church slide into the water and then they did what people on this coast have done for a thousand years: they moved further back and started again. The replacement opened in 1865, paid for largely by a stranger passing through. It cost four hundred and twenty pounds. It still stands. And buried in the design, almost unnoticed for over a century, is the signature of one of the most flamboyant architects of Victorian England.

A Gift From a Lighthouse Engineer

Alfred Burges was a civil engineer. He worked in partnership with James Walker, Chief Engineer for Trinity House, the body responsible for British lighthouses. In the 1850s Trinity House was funding the construction of a new Low Lighthouse at nearby Spurn Point, which is why Alfred Burges occasionally found himself passing through Kilnsea on professional visits. The Yorkshire Gazette of 22 April 1865 recorded what happened next: 'the great liberality of Mr A. Burgess C.E., of Blackheath, who having occasionally passed (Kilnsea) on his professional visits to Spurn Point and struck with the poverty of the place, having heard that an effort was being made for building a church, most kindly offered plans free of all expense, and gave £150 towards its completion'. The plans, Pevsner notes drily, were actually drawn up by Alfred Burges's two sons. One of them was William Burges.

The Architect They Forgot

William Burges was about to become one of the most extraordinary architects of the High Victorian period. Cardiff Castle, Castell Coch, churches dripping with gold and medieval revivalism, interiors so densely decorated they make the eyes ache. But here in remote Kilnsea, working with his father on a small replacement parish church for a fishing hamlet that kept losing its buildings to the sea, he produced something quiet, practical and modest. The total construction cost was £420. The church was so unobtrusively designed that J. Mordaunt Crook, in his definitive gazetteer of Burges's known buildings included in William Burges and the High Victorian Dream, didn't even include it. It took until December 2018 for the building to be listed Grade II - and the rediscovery came largely through Pevsner revisions and the patient work of David Neave.

Empty Now

The hamlet of Kilnsea has had a hard hundred and fifty years. Erosion never stopped. The Crown and Anchor public house still serves locals, but the congregation that filled the pews shrank to almost nothing, and on 20 June 1993 the last service was held at St Helen's. The diocese declared it redundant. It was sold for conversion to a private house. A tablet commemorating two villagers killed in the First World War was removed and is now at All Saints' in Easington. Two unknown merchant seamen lost during that same war lie in the small graveyard. They were brought in by the tide. No one ever identified them. They wait now in a quiet plot beside a church that almost no one knows was designed by William Burges, in a village that used to be larger, on a coast that keeps moving inland and forgetting what stood there before.

From the Air

The Church of St Helen sits at approximately 53.62N, 0.13E in the hamlet of Kilnsea, near the base of Spurn Head. Recommended viewing altitude is 1,500 to 2,500 feet AGL. The black-and-white striped Spurn lighthouse is visible to the south-east and provides easy orientation. The nearest airport is Humberside (EGNJ) approximately 18 nm west. Watch for coastal weather and sea mist common in this area where Humber estuary and North Sea meet.

Nearby Stories