Isle of Wight

Isle of WightEnglandIslandsUNESCO Biosphere ReserveCoastal
5 min read

From the air, the Isle of Wight looks like a chip knocked off the south coast of England, rough diamond in shape, with a chalk ridge running down its spine and dramatic white teeth biting into the sea at the Needles. About 125,000 years ago, rising sea levels finished what an ice-age river had started, breaching the old chalk wall that linked Wight to the Isle of Purbeck and turning a peninsula into Britain's largest English island. What remains, residents will tell you, is England in miniature: downland and chines, sandy beaches and slate-grey ports, a place small enough to drive across in an hour and varied enough to keep rewarding the attempt for a lifetime.

A Name That Means Division

The Romans called it Vectis. The Anglo-Saxons wrote Wiht. Medieval Welsh remembers it as Ynys Wyth. All those names probably share a Celtic root meaning something close to lift, or weight, or the act of dividing - which fits, because the island sits in the Solent strait like a wedge driven between two arms of the sea. Local people still call it simply The Island. Mainlanders are overners. Those born on the island are caulkheads, a term that may once have been mildly insulting and is now worn with pride. Jane Austen used the phrase "The Island" in Mansfield Park without feeling the need to specify which one - and on the Isle of Wight, in the early 19th century and largely today, you wouldn't have needed to ask.

Dinosaur Isle

The cliffs along the Back of the Wight crumble continuously, and as they crumble they hand over their secrets. Bones from the Wessex Formation work their way out of the rock at Yaverland and Compton Bay - fossilised footprints, vertebrae, the remains of animals that walked here when this place was somewhere else entirely. The island is one of the most important dinosaur fossil sites in Europe, which is why it has earned the nickname Dinosaur Isle and why a museum of the same name opened in Sandown in 2001. The fossils don't stop with dinosaurs. Crocodiles, turtles, mammal bones from 30 million years ago surface from the northern coast. At Bouldnor Cliff, eleven metres below sea level, a submerged Mesolithic site preserves wooden platforms, flint tools, and worked timbers from a riverbank that was overwhelmed when the Solent flooded thousands of years ago.

Victoria's Island

Queen Victoria came to the Isle of Wight as a child and never quite let it go. When she became queen, she built Osborne House at East Cowes as a summer retreat, an Italianate palace from which she could watch the Solent shipping and walk to her own private beach. There she used a bathing machine - a wooden hut on wheels that could be rolled into the water so she could swim unseen by anyone. The refurbished hut still sits at Queen Victoria's Beach today. On 14 January 1878, Alexander Graham Bell came to Osborne and placed the first publicly witnessed long-distance telephone calls in Britain, ringing Cowes, Southampton, and London for the queen to hear. She found the device "quite extraordinary" though the sound was "rather faint," and afterwards asked to buy the equipment outright. Bell, being Bell, offered to make her a set of her own. Victoria died at Osborne House on 22 January 1901, at the age of 81.

The Front Line

For an island that markets itself as a holiday destination, the Isle of Wight has spent an awful lot of its history on a war footing. The fortifications at Yarmouth, Cowes, East Cowes, and Sandown went up under Henry VIII to guard the approaches to Portsmouth. In July 1545 the king watched from Southsea Castle as his flagship Mary Rose sank in the Solent during an attempted French invasion that local militia helped repulse. During the 1860s, paranoia about another French attack triggered what remains in real terms the most expensive ever British government project - the Palmerston Forts and the Needles Batteries, built along the south coast and the Solent. During the Second World War, the island bristled with radar stations and observation posts; Hitler even put it into Fuhrer Directive 16 as a target for invasion. Later, the same Needles Battery that had once watched for French sails was repurposed to test Black Knight and Black Arrow - the rockets that would carry Britain into the space age.

August 1970

Between 600,000 and 700,000 people came to the Isle of Wight Festival in August 1970, a crowd roughly six times the island's population. They came for Jimi Hendrix, The Who, The Doors, Joni Mitchell, Miles Davis. The 1970 festival was at the time the largest rock concert ever held, and for Hendrix it would be among his last public performances - he died three weeks later. The chaos rattled local authorities so badly that Parliament passed the Isle of Wight Act of 1971 specifically to prevent gatherings of more than 5,000 people on the island without a licence. The festival was eventually revived in 2002 in a more tightly organised format. Today, the island's musical heritage spans from Hendrix to Wet Leg - the Mercury-nominated indie band from Ryde whose 2022 debut album made it one of the most unexpected musical exports of recent British pop.

The Sunniest Place in Britain

With between 1,800 and 2,100 hours of sunshine a year, the Isle of Wight claims more sunshine than anywhere else in Great Britain, and it has the microclimate to prove it. The Undercliff between St Catherine's Point and Bonchurch - the largest area of landslip morphology in western Europe - is sheltered enough to grow plants that struggle elsewhere in the UK. Adgestone Vineyard, one of Britain's oldest, sits on the chalk just inland from Sandown. Garlic grows so well in Newchurch that the village hosts an annual Garlic Festival and exports the crop to France. In June 2019 the whole island became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Red squirrels still thrive here, undisturbed by the grey squirrels that have displaced them on the mainland. The Glanville fritillary butterfly clings to those same crumbling cliffs that release the dinosaur bones.

Getting On, Getting Off

The Isle of Wight is reached by car ferry, passenger catamaran, or - uniquely in the world today - hovercraft, the Hovertravel service between Southsea and Ryde being the last commercial passenger hovercraft route still operating. The Island Line, a 9-mile remnant of the island's former railway network, runs second-hand London Underground stock because its tunnels are too small for anything bigger. The Isle of Wight Steam Railway branches off near Smallbrook and runs heritage steam to Wootton, on what was once the line to Newport. Cowes Week, held every August since 1826, is one of the oldest regattas in the world. And from the diamond's western tip, the chalk stacks of the Needles march out into the Channel, lit at night by a lighthouse that has marked the edge of England for sailors since 1859.

From the Air

Centred near 50.70°N, 1.30°W. Best appreciated from 2,000-4,000 feet AGL on a clear day, when the diamond shape of the island and the chalk ridge running west to the Needles are unmistakable. Sandown (EGHN) and Bembridge (EGHJ) provide GA access on-island. Southampton (EGHI) sits across the Solent to the north, with Bournemouth (EGHH) to the west. Watch for the Solent's notorious double tides and the busy shipping channels approaching Southampton Water and Portsmouth Harbour.