I took photo with Canon camera of Carolina Beach surf.
I took photo with Canon camera of Carolina Beach surf. — Photo: Billy Hathorn | CC BY 3.0

New Hanover County, North Carolina

countynorth-carolinawilmingtoncape-fearhistorycoast
5 min read

If you measure New Hanover County by land area, it is one of the smallest in North Carolina - only Chowan is smaller. If you measure it by population, it ranks among the largest. If you measure it by historical weight, it may rank first. This is the county where, in 1898, a white supremacist mob overthrew the elected, biracial government of Wilmington in the only successful coup d'etat in American history. It is also where Verrazzano made landfall in 1524, where Michael Jordan grew up, where Hollywood East shoots film and television, and where the Cape Fear River - dark with tannin, fast at the bends - empties past Fort Fisher into the Atlantic.

Before Anyone Stayed

The Cape Fear Indians lived in this place from at least 8000 BC. By the time European ships arrived, theirs was already an old culture braided with the Waccamaw Siouan. The first European to see the coast was the Italian explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano in 1524, sailing for France; he noted favorable findings and France did nothing with them. In 1526 the Spanish navigator Lucas Vazquez de Ayllon wrecked a ship in the area and moved on. In 1662 a New England expedition under Captain William Hilton arrived seeking land warm enough for a Puritan colony - they named it Cape Fear, settled briefly, and left for reasons no record explains. The Cape Fear Indians themselves, weakened by war and disease, were eventually forced out. The coast sat empty for another sixty years before, in 1726, the first permanent European settlement finally took hold.

A Port City Built on Slavery

The county was formed in 1729 as New Hanover Precinct, named for the German royal house then ruling Great Britain. By the 18th century the Port of Brunswick was the most important harbor in colonial North Carolina, soon overtaken by Wilmington just upriver. The economy was rice, then naval stores - turpentine, pitch, and tar tapped from longleaf pine forests by enslaved African Americans whose labor built the city. The plantation system in New Hanover never matched the scale of Charleston or Savannah - the soil was thin, the swamps too vast - but the trade in human beings ran through the Wilmington waterfront for nearly a century and a half. Enslaved men, women, and children were sold from the foot of Market Street, in sight of the courthouse and the Episcopal church, until February 1865, when Union forces took the city in the closing weeks of the Civil War.

The Coup of 1898

Wilmington in the 1890s was something almost no other Southern city was - majority Black and prospering. A Fusion coalition of Black Republicans and white Populists controlled the city. Three of ten aldermen were Black. The county coroner, the deputy court clerk, the city jailer - Black men holding office. The state's white Democrats organized a violent campaign to end it. On November 10, 1898, a mob of around two thousand white men burned the offices of Alex Manly's Daily Record, the only Black daily newspaper in the United States, then marched through Brooklyn, the Black neighborhood north of downtown, killing as many as sixty Black citizens by the most careful estimates - and possibly far more. By nightfall the elected mayor, the police chief, and the aldermen had been forced to sign prepared resignation letters at gunpoint. New white officials were sworn in within hours. Within two years, a state constitutional amendment had stripped almost all Black North Carolinians of the vote. Wilmington's Black population, once a majority, would never be one again.

Hollywood East and the Boom

Wilmington's economy spent most of the 20th century looking for a new identity. The cotton trade collapsed during Reconstruction. World War I brought brief work in shipbuilding. World War II brought more, and the post-war boom started filling out the suburbs. The University of North Carolina Wilmington, which had opened in 1947 as a tiny junior college for returning GIs, was granted university status in 1969 and now contributes billions to the regional economy. In the 1980s, Dino De Laurentiis built a movie studio in the city. Blue Velvet, Sleeping with the Enemy, Dawson's Creek, One Tree Hill, and dozens of other productions followed. Wilmington became known as Hollywood East. Interstate 40 reached the city in 1990, connecting it for the first time to the interstate system, and the population began to climb in earnest. The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated everything - remote workers and retirees flooded in. The county now ranks among North Carolina's top ten for GDP growth and is, geographically, nearly built out.

Coast, Forts, and the Battleship

The county's coast is its identity. Wrightsville Beach, Carolina Beach, and Kure Beach front the Atlantic. Masonboro Island, an undeveloped barrier strand, is a state reserve. Pleasure Island, Figure Eight Island, and Zeke's Island all sit within county lines. Fort Fisher, at the southern tip, was the last major Confederate stronghold to fall in the Civil War - its capture in January 1865 cut the South's final supply line. The USS North Carolina, a 1941 battleship that earned fifteen battle stars in the Pacific, has been moored across the Cape Fear from downtown Wilmington since 1961, a museum and a memorial. Airlie Gardens, sixty-seven acres of formal gardens around a freshwater lake, dates to 1901 and still draws visitors for camellias in winter and azaleas in spring. The county is small. It is also full.

From the Air

New Hanover County is roughly 34.18N, 77.86W. The county is unmistakable from the air - a wedge of coast between the Cape Fear River and the Atlantic Ocean. Wilmington International Airport (KILM) is the primary field, six miles north of downtown Wilmington. Approaches from the south follow the Cape Fear River past Fort Fisher. The barrier-island chain - Wrightsville, Masonboro, Carolina Beach, Kure Beach - is visible for miles along the coast. Year-round visibility is generally excellent; afternoon thunderstorms and tropical systems are summer hazards.