View from within Roaring Plains Wilderness, West Virginia, USA
View from within Roaring Plains Wilderness, West Virginia, USA — Photo: Dogwood123 | CC BY-SA 3.0

Roaring Plains West Wilderness

wildernessnational-forestappalachianwest-virginiahigh-elevation
4 min read

Fifteen feet of snow falls here in an average year. The high ground above 4,000 feet sits under blizzard conditions from November well into April, and snow can linger from early October to early May. This is the Roaring Plains West Wilderness, a 6,820-acre stretch of the Allegheny Mountains where eastern West Virginia rises into something more like Labrador than Appalachia.

The Highest Flat Place in the East

About 5.5 square miles of the wilderness sits at or above the 4,500-foot contour, making this the largest and highest flat-topped plateau in eastern North America. Together with neighboring Flatrock Plains, these uplands form the highest plateau in the eastern United States. The terrain reads like a contradiction. Vast rocky openings stretch toward the horizon, studded with stunted trees and ringed by cliffs and outcrops that drop away into ridge country. Mount Porte Crayon, the sixth highest point in West Virginia, rises within the boundary. Elevations across the wilderness range from 2,360 feet at the lower edges to 4,770 feet at the crest, and the Allegheny Front - the name the Eastern Continental Divide takes here - runs straight through it, parting waters east from west.

Bogs at the Roof of the State

Seven known high-elevation wetlands sit on top of these plateaux. They are sphagnum bogs, the highest in West Virginia, and they do something remarkable for a piece of land so close to the sky: they regulate stream flow at the headwaters on both sides of the Continental Divide. Water that begins here will eventually reach the Atlantic or the Gulf, depending on which side of the Front it finds. The bogs themselves shelter species more familiar to northern Canada than the mid-Atlantic. Snowshoe hare and southern bog lemming move through the sphagnum. Bobcat and fisher hunt the edges. The federally threatened Cheat Mountain salamander, a creature found only in a handful of high West Virginia ridges, lives under the cool red spruce canopy that the wilderness was set aside to protect.

Rhododendron and Red Spruce

The dominant cover across Roaring Plains West is mesic forest - red spruce overhead, mixed hardwoods filling the gaps, open brush where the rock comes through. The understory is the obstacle. Mountain laurel and great rhododendron form thickets so dense they are described in the local literature as virtually impenetrable. For most of the year they are simply a wall of leathery leaves. In late June the mountain laurel explodes with pink and white blossoms, briefly turning the impassable into the spectacular. Trails loop through the wilderness and connect outward to Red Creek Plains, the famous Dolly Sods Wilderness to the north, and onward toward Canaan Valley. The result is one of the largest connected blocks of high-elevation backcountry in the eastern United States.

How It Was Saved

Roaring Plains West did not become wilderness easily. Advocates pushed for a much larger 15,138-acre area, and what eventually passed Congress was a smaller 6,820-acre core. The Wild Monongahela Act, signed into law on March 30, 2009, drew the boundary. Two adjacent zones, Roaring Plains North and Roaring Plains East, were left outside the wilderness designation - reminders that the line on the map is a political compromise as much as an ecological one. The botanist Earl Lemley Core published the first scientific account of the plateau's plants in 1939, in a paper titled simply The Flora of Roaring Plains, West Virginia. Seventy years later the Wilderness Act of 1964 finally caught up with the place he described.

From the Air

Centered near 38.94 degrees north, 79.43 degrees west, in the Allegheny Highlands of eastern West Virginia. From 7,000 to 9,000 feet AGL the high plateau and surrounding cliffs read clearly against the rest of the ridge country, with Dolly Sods to the north as a visual reference. Nearest airports are Elkins-Randolph County Regional (KEKN) to the west and Grant County (W99) to the northeast. Expect strong orographic turbulence in winter and frequent IFR conditions on the plateau itself.