When a rival river town called Nyamina destroyed itself in a civil war in 1794, the trade had to go somewhere. It went to Sansanding. Known to its own people as Sinsani, this walled town on the Niger downstream from Ségou rose to become one of the great commercial centers of the Bamana Empire, its market crowded morning to night with stalls of beads, balls of indigo, and bolts of cloth carried from Hausa country and Djenné. Today it is a quiet rural commune of some 23,000 people, but the walls and the market once made it a prize worth fighting over.
Sinsani's wealth came from distance. It was a hinge in the long-distance trade of the western Sudan, where goods moving along the Niger met caravans crossing the Sahel, and Muslim merchant families, the Marka traders for whom the town is remembered, ran the exchange. The market ran daily, swelling to a great gathering once a week, its stalls sorted by commodity in a way that struck visitors as a kind of order. When the Scottish explorer Mungo Park passed through in 1796, the Muslim traders objected to the Christian stranger in their midst; when he returned in 1805 on his final, fatal journey down the Niger, he stayed more than six weeks under the protection of the faama of Ségou.
Wealth invites armies, and in the 1860s the army came. The Toucouleur Empire of El Hadj Umar Tall pressed against Sinsani, and the town's walls were tested twice. In December 1863 the attackers actually breached the defenses, but the soldiers stopped to plunder the houses, and in the time they wasted on loot the townspeople rallied and threw them back out. A second assault, a siege that ground on from July to September of 1865, also failed. Two empires wanted Sinsani; for a while, Sinsani kept itself.
The independence did not last. As the 19th century closed and French forces conquered the middle Niger, the colonial administration reshaped local authority to suit itself. Mademba Sy held the title of faama of Sansanding in this period, and after the conquest of Massina in the 1890s the French installed him as its 'chief,' an indigenous ruler governing on the colonizers' behalf. It was a familiar colonial arrangement, real power flowing from Paris while a local face wore the crown. The town that had once turned back besieging empires now found its leadership chosen by the newest empire of all. Its population, recorded at 6,508 in 1998, has long since settled into the rhythms of a farming and fishing commune on the river.
Sansanding (Sinsani) lies at 13.73 N, 6.00 W on the Niger River in central Mali, roughly 35 to 40 km downstream (northeast) of Ségou and a short distance east of the Markala dam. From the air, look for the river's broad floodplain and the cluster of the old town on the bank; the nearby Markala barrage and its irrigation canals make a useful navigational anchor. Nearest major airport is Bamako-Sénou International (GABS), about 230 km southwest. Terrain is flat Sahelian plain, so the Niger and its green riverside margin dominate the view. Visibility is best in the dry season, subject to harmattan haze.