Vendovi Island

IslandsSan Juan IslandsWashington StateConservationPacific History
3 min read

The 2000 census recorded a population of two on Vendovi Island. Two hundred and twenty acres of forest and shoreline in the San Juans, and two people to occupy it. The island sits across Samish Bay from the mainland of Skagit County, tucked between Guemes Island and Lummi Island in a part of the archipelago the ferries do not serve. Its name comes from ten thousand kilometres away, from a Fijian high chief called Ro Veidovi, and how a Washington island came to carry it is the most interesting thing about the place.

A Name Carried Across an Ocean

In the early 1840s the United States Exploring Expedition, commanded by Charles Wilkes, swept through the Pacific charting islands and collecting specimens, and it eventually worked its way into these northern waters, where Wilkes named a great deal of what he saw. Many of the names he left behind commemorate his own officers and his own campaigns. This one does not. Ro Veidovi was a Fijian high chief, and the expedition did not invite him aboard - Wilkes's officers took him captive in 1840 as punishment for an attack six years earlier on the American trading ship Charles Doggett, holding his own king hostage until Veidovi surrendered himself in exchange for his family's safety. He never went home. Veidovi died in New York in June 1842, within days of the expedition's return, and naval surgeons removed and preserved his skull, which the Smithsonian Institution later catalogued as a specimen. An island on the far side of the ocean from everything Veidovi had ever known was given a version of his name, respelled along the way as Vendovi. The island kept the name. The man's own story did not stay attached to it, which is the usual arrangement when a place is named after someone who had no say in the matter.

Two Hundred and Twenty Acres

The geography is compact: 217 acres of land, an island small enough to walk end to end in an afternoon. It lies in Skagit County rather than San Juan County, an administrative quirk that follows from its position on the eastern edge of the archipelago, closer to the mainland than to the islands most people picture when they hear the name San Juans. Samish Bay separates it from the Skagit shoreline. Guemes Island lies south, Lummi Island north. In census terms Vendovi is Block 1000 of Census Tract 9501, a designation that exists because the United States counts everything, including places where the count reaches two.

Privately Held

Before 2010, Vendovi was private property, held by the family of John Fluke Sr. A privately owned island in the San Juans is a particular kind of possession. It is not merely land; it is the absence of neighbours, the absence of a road, the absence of anyone arriving unannounced. It is also a considerable responsibility, because an island does not maintain itself and every gallon of fuel, every board and every visitor comes by boat. Families who hold islands for generations tend to be families who understand that trade.

Handing It On

In December 2010 the family sold the island to the San Juan Preservation Trust, a land trust whose work is the conservation of open space across the archipelago. That transaction changed the island's future rather than its appearance. Under a trust, the forest is not going to be logged, the shoreline is not going to be subdivided, and no one is going to wake up to a row of houses where there had been trees. Land trusts do quiet work, and their results are best measured by what fails to happen. In an archipelago where waterfront is among the most sought-after property in the Pacific Northwest, keeping 220 acres out of that market permanently is not a small act.

What It Is Now

Vendovi today is a wooded island with a protected shoreline, reachable only by water, in a stretch of the Salish Sea busy with traffic that mostly passes it by. The ferries run elsewhere. The name on the chart still belongs to a man from Fiji who was carried here by an American naval expedition, a fragment of nineteenth-century Pacific history stranded on a small green island in Washington State. It is worth knowing, standing on the beach, that the name is not local, and that behind it is a person, not a landmark.

From the Air

Vendovi Island lies at 48.6107 N, 122.6049 W in the eastern San Juan Islands, in Skagit County, Washington. Best viewing altitude is 1,500 to 3,000 feet, enough to take in the whole island and the surrounding channels in one pass. Key visual landmarks: Samish Bay and the Skagit County mainland to the east, the long ridge of Lummi Island to the north, Guemes Island and the Anacortes area to the south, and Bellingham Bay opening northeast. The island is entirely wooded with no runway, no road system and no ferry terminal, which makes it easy to distinguish from its more developed neighbours. Bellingham International (KBLI) lies about 12 nm northeast and Anacortes Airport is roughly 8 nm south; Orcas Island (KORS) sits about 12 nm west. Expect heavy vessel traffic in the surrounding channels, marine stratus in the mornings, and strong northerly outflow winds through the Strait of Georgia in winter.