Warm Springs Bathhouses, Warm Springs, Virginia, July 2021
Warm Springs Bathhouses, Warm Springs, Virginia, July 2021 — Photo: Ser Amantio di Nicolao | CC BY-SA 4.0

Warm Springs Pools

historyarchitecturespanational-registerappalachiavirginia
5 min read

The water has been arriving on its own for as long as anyone has measured it - 1.7 million gallons a day, naturally heated by deep Virginia bedrock to a steady 98 degrees Fahrenheit. The men's pool alone holds 40,000 gallons, all of it constantly flowing through and out. People have been soaking in it for at least 265 years inside the octagonal wooden pool house built in 1761, the oldest European-style spa structure in the United States. Thomas Jefferson bathed here. So did a long roll-call of antebellum southerners who came up the mountain roads for what they hoped the mineral water would do for their joints, their nerves, and their general constitution.

The Octagonal Men's Pool

The foundation of the Gentlemen's Pool House was laid in 1761, in the era when Bath County was still wilderness and the colonial Virginia frontier had only just settled enough to support resort architecture. The octagonal shape was unusual but not arbitrary - it allowed the wooden structure to enclose a circular pool with a regular geometry while making the most efficient use of timber. The wooden structure on top of the pool, the one that visitors see today, was first constructed in the 1820s. It has been rebuilt and repaired many times, but the basic form has not changed. The interior is open to the sky - the building is essentially a wooden ring around the pool, with a roof that admits light and lets steam rise out. Modesty was preserved by the walls; ventilation was supplied by the openness.

The Ladies' Pool, with 22 Sides

The Ladies' Pool House came along 75 years later, in 1836. Its 22-sided shape - nearly circular but not quite - reflected the same desire to make a wooden structure enclose a round pool, but with more sides for a smoother curve. By the 1830s, the spa business at Warm Springs had grown enough to justify a dedicated facility for women, and the social conventions of antebellum Virginia required strict separation of the sexes. The mineral chemistry of the women's pool was the same as the men's: magnesium sulfate, iron, silica, boron, barium, manganese, lithium. The water was the same 98 degrees. The architectural distinction was for human reasons, not geological ones.

Thomas Jefferson and the Cure

Thomas Jefferson visited the Warm Springs Pools in 1818 - a 75-year-old former president seeking relief from a rheumatic ailment. He stayed three weeks, bathed three times a day, and complained in letters that the cure was worse than the disease, because the prolonged immersion left him weak and chilled. The Jefferson connection later prompted the 20th-century rebranding of the pools as the "Jefferson Pools," a name that stuck for decades until 2021, when the original "Warm Springs Pools" was restored. Other famous bathers across the centuries include the long parade of antebellum politicians, planters, and military officers who passed through Bath County in the summer. The 19th-century Virginia spa circuit - White Sulphur Springs, Warm Springs, Hot Springs, and a dozen others - functioned as both health resort and political networking ground.

Closure and Rehabilitation

The buildings finally caught up with their age. Two and a half centuries of steam, mineral-saturated water, and untreated wood took their toll. In October 2017, Bath County ordered the pool houses closed as a safety hazard - the kind of structural decision that small county officials hate to make about a National Register property but cannot avoid when timbers begin to fail. The Omni Homestead Resort, which owns the pools, announced a rehabilitation. Work began in 2021, with the architectural firm 3North and the contractor Lionberger Construction. The rebuild followed the historic-registration requirements precisely. Blueprints for the new design were based on photographs and documents showing the pool houses as they appeared in 1925. The pools reopened on December 17, 2022. The water, as always, was waiting.

Soaking, Still

Today the Homestead offers one-hour soaking sessions for guests and day visitors. Family sessions welcome all ages, including children. Adult co-ed soaks run for those 16 and up. Following the original 18th- and 19th-century tradition, clothing-optional times are available when the pools are separated by sex - a small concession to history that lets the pools function the way they did when Jefferson visited. The buildings on the Virginia Landmarks Register and the National Register of Historic Places are functioning spas, not museums. People still wade into water that flowed through the same opening when George Washington was a young surveyor. There are very few places left in the United States where a 1761 wooden structure is still used for its original purpose by paying customers. The Warm Springs Pools are one of them.

From the Air

Located at 38.05 degrees north, 79.78 degrees west, in the town of Warm Springs, Virginia, just south of the Pocahontas County line. The pool houses are small wooden structures - identifiable from the air mainly by the steam plume on cold mornings. Best identified visually from VFR altitudes of 4,500 to 6,500 feet AGL using Warm Springs as the landmark. The closest airport is Ingalls Field (KHSP) at Hot Springs, about 5 nautical miles south, a high-elevation public field at 3,793 feet MSL. Watch for mountain wave activity in the surrounding Alleghenies and morning valley fog.