A traditional pub with rooms to let in Hawes, in the Dales of North Yorkshire
A traditional pub with rooms to let in Hawes, in the Dales of North Yorkshire — Photo: Peter K Burian | CC BY-SA 4.0

Yorkshire Dales National Park

national parksEnglandYorkshirePenninesdark sky reserves
4 min read

Lift your eyes off the road climbing out of Hawes at dusk and the sky does something English skies rarely do anymore. It goes properly dark. In 2020 the Yorkshire Dales National Park was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve, which sounds like bureaucratic poetry until you actually stand on Buttertubs Pass at midnight and see the Milky Way smeared overhead. Light pollution stops at the park boundary, more or less. What replaces it is something older: dry-stone walls under starlight, sheep moving like grey shadows, and the silhouettes of the Three Peaks against the horizon.

What the Map Calls a Park

The Yorkshire Dales National Park covers 2,178 square kilometres of upland England, designated in 1954 and significantly extended westward in 2016. Most of the park sits in North Yorkshire, with a sizeable chunk in Cumbria and a small tail in Lancashire. The 2016 expansion pushed the boundary close to Kirkby Lonsdale and Appleby-in-Westmorland and folded in the Howgill Fells and most of the Orton Fells. The Nidderdale area was deliberately left out and is administered separately as a National Landscape. Almost everything inside the boundary is privately owned, which surprises American visitors who assume national parks mean public land. More than 95 percent is private, and over a thousand working farms operate within the park. Stone barns, sheep folds, and grouse moors are not heritage props. They are the live economy.

Stepped Hills, Hidden Rivers

Underneath everything is Carboniferous Limestone, laid down in shallow tropical seas around 340 million years ago. The rock weathers in distinctive horizontal bands, giving the dales their characteristic stepped silhouette as harder limestone alternates with softer shales of the Yoredale Series. Rainwater dissolves the limestone, and the dales hide one of the most extensive cave networks in the United Kingdom, including a portion of the 87-kilometre Three Counties System. Above ground, glaciers from the Devensian ice age finished the sculpting, scraping out U-shaped valleys like Swaledale and gouging the dramatic curve at Malham Cove. Seven major rivers drain the park: the Swale, Ure, Wharfe, Aire, Nidd, Ribble, and Lune. The hills themselves include the Yorkshire Three Peaks - Ingleborough at 723 metres, Whernside at 736 metres, and Pen-y-ghent at 694 metres - traditionally walked in a single twelve-hour circuit by some 40,000 challengers a year.

Walls That Crossed Centuries

A 1988 survey estimated 8,000 kilometres of dry-stone walling inside the Yorkshire Dales. That is roughly the distance from London to Karachi, laid stone by stone, mostly by hand, mostly without mortar. Many walls date from the parliamentary enclosures of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, when common land was carved into private fields. They climb impossibly steep slopes, cross peat bogs, run along ridgelines where no sane animal would graze. They are repaired today by waller-craftsmen using the same technique their great-grandfathers used, fitting stones by feel until each one locks into the gravity of the wall. The traditional field barns scattered through Wensleydale and Swaledale belong to the same vocabulary. Most no longer hold hay or cattle, but they remain part of the protected landscape, slowly weathering into something between architecture and geology.

Herriot Country

Long-distance walkers know the park as the spine of the Pennine Way, which crosses it north to south, joined by the Dales Way, the Coast to Coast Walk, and the Pennine Bridleway. The Settle-Carlisle railway threads through the western edge across the dramatic Ribblehead Viaduct, twenty-four arches of Victorian engineering carrying trains 32 metres above the bog. But for many visitors the gateway is television. The 2020 series All Creatures Great and Small, based on the James Herriot books, was filmed largely within the park, and visitor numbers spiked through the pandemic and after. Tourist authorities did not pretend to be subtle: Discover England ran its 2021 campaign as Discover All Creatures Great and Small in Yorkshire. The park draws over four million visits a year, and tourism and farming together hold up an economy that maintains the walls, the moors, and the dark skies that brought everyone there in the first place.

From the Air

Centered around 54.27 N, 2.08 W spanning North Yorkshire, Cumbria, and a sliver of Lancashire. Visible terrain features include the Yorkshire Three Peaks (Whernside 2,415 ft, Ingleborough 2,372 ft, Pen-y-ghent 2,277 ft), the Ribblehead Viaduct (24 arches, 440 m long), Malham Cove (limestone amphitheatre), and the Howgill Fells in the west. Best viewing altitude 3,000-6,000 feet AGL. Leeds Bradford (EGNM) lies about 25 nm south-east, Carlisle Lake District (EGNC) about 30 nm north-west. Designated International Dark Sky Reserve - exceptional for night flying photography. Weather can be marginal year-round with hill fog rolling in suddenly off the Pennines.

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