The Indian Tribes on Vancouver Island and on the Coast of British Columbia Based on his own research, Dr. Franz Boas
The Indian Tribes on Vancouver Island and on the Coast of British Columbia Based on his own research, Dr. Franz Boas — Photo: Boas, Dr. Franz | Public domain

Cowichan Tribes

Coast Salish governmentsDuncan, British ColumbiaMid Vancouver IslandFirst Nations in British ColumbiaTextile arts
4 min read

Undyed, heavy as a blanket, hip-length, shawl-collared, zipped up the front and banded with eagles or deer or geometric repeats - the Cowichan sweater is one of a very small number of Canadian garments the world recognises on sight. It was not designed. It emerged, in the Cowichan Valley of Vancouver Island, out of a collision: Coast Salish women who had spun and woven wool for generations were taught European knitting in mission schoolrooms in the 1860s, and what came out the other side belonged entirely to neither tradition. More than a century and a half later, Cowichan Tribes remains the largest First Nation band in British Columbia, with over 3,800 registered members - and it is still arguing, in courtrooms and in shops, about who owns what its people made.

Seven Villages, One Band

Cowichan Tribes is an administrative creation stretched over something older. When the band was constituted under the Indian Act, seven distinct peoples were amalgamated into a single legal entity: Quamichan, the largest, along with Clemclemaluts, Comiaken, Khenipsen, Kilpahlas, Koksilah and Somena - Kwaʼmutsun, Lʼumlʼumuluts, Qwumʼyiqunʼ, Hinupsum, Tlʼulpalus, Hwulqwselu and Sʼamunaʼ in their own language. Their traditional territory covered the whole Cowichan Valley, Cowichan Lake and Shawnigan Lake, and reached out into the Gulf Islands and across to the Fraser River, with the heaviest settlement in the lowlands running from present-day Duncan down to Cowichan Bay. That reach was recognised early: in 1808 other nations warned the explorer Simon Fraser that the Cowichan held most of the country between the Fraser River and the open Pacific. Today the band's nine reserves total 24 square kilometres, inside a core traditional territory of roughly 3,750.

How the Sweater Happened

In 1858 Sisters of St. Ann travelled from Montreal to Victoria and opened a schoolhouse. Through the 1860s, knitting became part of what Indigenous girls were taught at St. Ann's Academy in Victoria and at St. Ann's School for Indian Girls in Duncan - a colonial curriculum delivered in a colonial institution. What the students did with it was their own. Coast Salish weavers already understood wool intimately, and the technique landed in hands that had been working fibre for a very long time. By the twentieth century the classic form had settled: white or undyed wool, worked in coat style, fastened with buttons or a zipper, hip-length, shawl collar, and ornamented with Indigenous or sporting motifs. It is warm to the point of impracticality indoors, which is exactly the point.

Everybody Else's Cowichan Sweater

Imitation started almost immediately. Commercial firms were copying the design by the 1920s, and Mary Maxim, founded in the 1940s, built a mail-order knitting empire partly on patterns encountered during a sales trip through British Columbia. The dispute reached national television in 2009, when the Hudson's Bay Company unveiled official sweaters for the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics that looked unmistakably like Cowichan work. On 21 October 2009 Chief Linda Hwitsum called publicly for redress. The outcome was a compromise rather than a victory: Cowichan knitters were given space to sell their own sweaters alongside the commercial versions at the Hudson's Bay store in downtown Vancouver. The garments were side by side on the same floor, which made the difference between them visible to anyone willing to look.

Lulu Island

The longest-running argument is about land. Cowichan families travelled seasonally to the lower Fraser River for the salmon runs, keeping villages and fishing stations there for generations before the river's mouth became Richmond, British Columbia. In August 2025, the Supreme Court of British Columbia found that Cowichan Tribes holds Aboriginal title over a portion of Lulu Island in Richmond, together with fishing rights on that stretch of the Fraser. The decision landed on some of the most heavily developed and expensive real estate on Canada's west coast, and its consequences are still being worked out - but as a finding of fact about who was there and what they held, it was unambiguous.

The Valley Now

Cowichan Tribes is governed by an elected chief and a council of twelve, serving a total population of 5,614. Its business arm, the Khowutzun Development Corporation, runs contracting, forest services and a millwork and joinery operation, and the group's combined revenue reached $60 million as long ago as 2004. The Quwʼutsun Cultural and Conference Centre sits on the Cowichan River in Duncan and does the work of explaining the nation to visitors in its own words. The valley itself remains what drew people here in the first place: one of the warmest and driest pockets on the British Columbia coast, and among its most agriculturally generous, with a river full of salmon running through the middle of it - which is also why almost everyone else wanted it.

From the Air

Cowichan Tribes' main reserve lands lie around 48.7762 N, 123.7093 W, along the lower Cowichan River near Duncan on southeastern Vancouver Island, roughly 50 km north of Victoria. Recommended viewing altitude is 2,500-5,000 ft AGL. Orient on the Cowichan River, which runs east out of Cowichan Lake - a long, narrow, forested lake filling the valley floor to the west - and empties into Cowichan Bay, with the Koksilah River joining from the south. Duncan sits at the centre of the flat valley farmland; Mount Prevost rises immediately northwest with its prominent war memorial cairn on the summit. To the east, across Sansum Narrows, lies Saltspring Island and the rest of the southern Gulf Islands; to the southwest, logged ridges climb toward the island's interior. Nearest airports: CAM3 (Duncan) right in the valley, CYCD (Nanaimo) about 40 km north, and CYYJ (Victoria International) about 50 km south. The valley traps morning fog in autumn and winter and is notably warmer and drier in summer than the coast north of it.