Walden Pond, Massachusetts on June 27, 2012.  This is a square crop of File:2012-06-27-Walden-Pond-02 33.jpg by User:Cbaile19.
Walden Pond, Massachusetts on June 27, 2012. This is a square crop of File:2012-06-27-Walden-Pond-02 33.jpg by User:Cbaile19. — Photo: Buaidh | CC BY-SA 4.0

Loweswater

lakelake-districtnational-trustcumbriaengland
3 min read

Most of the Lake District drains outward, water sliding down the radial valleys toward the Irish Sea. Loweswater goes the other way. Its outfall, Dub Beck, becomes Park Beck and runs east into the head of Crummock Water, sending Loweswater's contents on a longer, looping journey to the coast at Workington by way of the River Cocker and the River Derwent. It is a small contrariness, but a notable one in a landscape so often described by its symmetry. The lake sits below rolling hills rather than rocky pinnacles, and the quiet shows in its visitor numbers: while crowds throng Buttermere and Crummock Water just over the ridge, Loweswater stays largely untroubled.

The Leafy Lake

The name itself is old and gentle. Place-name scholars trace Loweswater to the Old Norse laufsaer, meaning leafy lake, a form preserved today in Swedish Lovsjo. Settlers from Scandinavia gave it that name a thousand years ago, and English speakers later added the explanatory wae ter, doubling up on the word for water as if to make sure no one missed the point. The doubled name has stuck. Loweswater sits a short distance from Cockermouth and is easily reached from anywhere in West Cumbria, but the road in keeps it feeling tucked away, the kind of place you do not pass through on the way to somewhere else.

Hills That Hold the Water

South of the lake rises a group of fells named for it: the Loweswater Fells, made up of Mellbreak, Gavel Fell, Blake Fell, Hen Comb, and Burnbank Fell. Mellbreak is the local exception, steep and craggy where most of its neighbours roll gently. To the north stands the Fellbarrow range. The contrast with the central Lakeland fells is striking. There are no pinnacles or knife-edged ridges here, just shoulders and slopes that have been smoothed by ice and weather. On the south side, Holme Wood spreads down to the water. Tucked inside its trees is Holme Force, a waterfall of unusual beauty that is hard to find because it cannot be seen from the lakeside path.

A Path Around, and a Show in the Field

Loweswater is owned by the National Trust, which has cut back trees along the north shore in recent years to open up the views. Rowing boats can be rented to use on the water, though private craft are not allowed. A popular path circles the entire lake, an unhurried walk that takes in both shores and the woodland on the south side. Once a year the village turns out for the Loweswater Show, a traditional Cumbrian gathering with Cumberland wrestling, hound trails, and competitions for farmers' produce. The show belongs to a calendar of small agricultural fairs that still anchors valley life across northwest Cumbria, and at Loweswater it draws in the surrounding fell communities for an afternoon that feels older than the road that brought them.

From the Air

Loweswater lies at approximately 54.58 N, 3.36 W in the northwest Lake District. Recommended viewing altitude is 2,000 to 4,000 feet AGL. The lake is visible as a clear water feature with Mellbreak rising sharply on its south side and the Fellbarrow range to the north. Cockermouth lies a few miles north; Crummock Water and Buttermere are immediately to the east. The nearest airport is Carlisle Lake District (EGNC). The valley can be cloud-bound in poor weather; the western fells receive some of the heaviest rainfall in England.

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