Puyo

Pastaza ProvinceAmazon (Ecuador)
4 min read

Baños gets the adventure tourists. The spa town on the Andes side of the Tungurahua Province draws busloads of backpackers for canyoning, white-water rafting, and the thermal baths that give it its name. Puyo, just over the ridge to the east, rarely makes the itineraries - and that is part of what makes it interesting. The city sits where the Andes finally give up and the Amazon basin takes over. It is home to the Universidad Estatal Amazónica, a growing student population, an unexpected nightlife district, and enough jungle on its doorstep to absorb months of exploring. Most travelers blow past on the way to somewhere else. The ones who stop find that the Amazon begins here, and that Puyo knows exactly how to be a base camp for it.

How to Get In

Puyo is well connected by bus. From Quito, buses leave from the Quitumbe terminal in the south on a five-hour run over the Andes and down into the eastern lowlands. Cooperativa San Francisco runs a reliable route. From Baños, it is a 90-minute ride that cost about 2.75 USD in August 2023 - one of the most scenic stretches in Ecuador, passing waterfalls and following the Pastaza River gorge. There is a small airport at Shell, roughly 10 kilometers northwest, but it mainly handles light aircraft flying into Amazon communities. No major commercial flights serve the area. Charter and emergency flights are available for those who need them. Within the city, most attractions are walkable. Local buses cost 30 cents. Taxis within Puyo are a flat 1.25 USD, rising to 1.50 if you want to cross the entire urban area.

Plants That Cure, Plants That Kill

The Omaere Ethnobotanical Park, along the Paseo Turístico del Río Puyo at the northeast edge of town, is where Puyo reveals itself as an Amazon city. Local indigenous guides lead visitors through collections of medicinal and ritual plants native to the region, explaining which bark reduces fever, which leaves treat parasites, which flowers feature in Kichwa cosmology, and which plants were once used to ward off evil spirits. Tours run in English and Spanish for a small fee. Nearby, a mirador overlooking the Puyo River, the Omaere park, and the city costs nothing at all. Beyond the park, the region's waterfalls become day trips. The cascade in Triunfo, along the road to Arajuno, is one of the most impressive. Tour operators arrange rafting on the Pastaza, kayaking, and canopy zip-lining. Many outfits partner with indigenous communities, running tourism that supports rather than exploits the people whose territory this is.

Where the Students Go

Zona Obrero is Puyo's unexpected contribution to Ecuadorian nightlife. On weekends, the district fills with students from the Universidad Estatal Amazónica - locals and visitors alike - and the bars run close together, playing everything from salsa to electronic. The effect is concentrated: a small town's worth of places packed into a few blocks. Café Escobar, in a more central location downtown, takes a different tack: artisanal beer, cocktails, and variations on chicha, the fermented yuca drink that has been made in the Amazon for thousands of years. Mama Mia in barrio Obrero serves salads, burritos, sandwiches, and hamburgers. For cheap lunches, the Mercado Mariscal or Mercado de los Platanos on their second floors offer complete almuerzos - soup, main dish, drink - between 1.75 and 2.50 USD. On Sundays the markets have their freshest produce.

Eating the Amazon

Near the terminal terrestre, restaurants serve almost exclusively Amazonian cuisine. The signature dish is maito - typically fish, sometimes chicken, wrapped in bijao leaves and cooked over coals, with the leaves imparting a subtle vegetable flavor the grill alone cannot produce. Alongside maito on the menu is chontacura: the fat larva of the chonta palm weevil, skewered and roasted, an indigenous Kichwa food that urban Ecuadorians have lately rediscovered as a regional delicacy. Volquetero, another regional specialty, is found in many restaurants in the Obrero neighborhood. Traditional, filling, inexpensive. The Wao fairtrade handicraft store in the center sells work by the Waorani people, one of the indigenous nations whose ancestral territory extends east of Puyo toward the Yasuní rainforest. Everything about the city's food and craft culture insists on its Amazonian identity - not the Andean Ecuador of Quito's colonial churches, but the eastern country that begins at Puyo's edge and continues, unbroken forest, almost to the Atlantic.

From the Air

Located at 1.49°S, 78.00°W at 950m elevation, the gateway city to Ecuador's Amazon region. Viewing altitude 4,500m reveals the dramatic topographic transition: Andes peaks to the west (including active Tungurahua volcano at 5,023m just 20nm northwest), flat Amazon basin extending east toward Brazil. The Puyo River valley guides the eye toward the Pastaza River, which feeds the greater Amazon drainage. Nearest airport: Río Amazonas Airport (SESM) at Shell, 10km northwest - paved 2,400m runway primarily serving light aircraft on missionary and medical flights into Amazon communities. The Pastaza River gorge is the most prominent terrain feature - a deep cut that carries traffic between Baños (Andes) and Puyo (Amazon) through some of Ecuador's most vertiginous scenery.