
There is a bird here the size of a sparrow that almost no one ever sees. The Eyrean grasswren spends its life among the canegrass on the flanks of the dunes, running rather than flying, vanishing into the spinifex at the first hint of danger. For more than half a century after its discovery it was effectively lost to science, presumed perhaps extinct, until it was rediscovered in the 1970s in exactly this kind of country. The Simpson Desert Important Bird Area, some 22,848 square kilometres of dune field and gibber straddling the Queensland and South Australian border, exists in large part to keep that small, secretive bird safe.
An Important Bird Area is not a single park but a recognition, drawn by BirdLife International, that a place matters to birds. This one stitches together five large, contiguous reserves that share light grazing pressure and careful management. It overlaps the Munga-Thirri National Park on the Queensland side and the Munga-Thirri-Simpson Desert National Park in South Australia, the Bush Heritage Australia reserves of Ethabuka and Cravens Peak, and the Mulligan River Nature Refuge managed by the North Australian Pastoral Company. Together they form a corridor of protected desert big enough to hold viable populations of species that need vast, undisturbed space simply to exist.
The country is far more varied than the word desert suggests. The site takes in parts of the spasmodically flooded Channel Country, where rivers run only after distant rain, grading into gidgee woodlands and tall shrublands. Mesas and escarpments break the horizon. Gorges cut through stone, gibber plains stretch in polished pavements, and between the dune fields lie ephemeral clay pans, semi-permanent waterholes, and artesian springs fed from deep underground. It is hot and arid country: in the south, summer temperatures can exceed 50 degrees Celsius, and the average annual rainfall is less than 150 millimetres. The variety of landforms is precisely what supports such a range of birds.
The Eyrean grasswren may be the headline species, but it shares the dunes with a remarkable supporting cast. Gibberbirds pick their way across the stony plains, perfectly matched to the gravel. Grey falcons, among the rarest raptors in Australia, hunt the open country. Australian bustards stalk the spinifex, inland dotterels haunt the gibber by night, and banded whitefaces, cinnamon quail-thrushes, and painted finches add their voices to the mix. Grey, black, pied, and grey-headed honeyeaters work the flowering shrubs. Chirruping and chiming wedgebills call across the swales. These are not common backyard birds; they are arid-zone specialists, many of them seen by few people in their lifetimes.
Desert birdwatching is an exercise in timing. For much of the time the dune fields seem nearly empty, the birds thin on the ground, the country holding its breath. Then rain arrives, sometimes from cyclones spinning down out of the tropics, and the desert transforms. Seeding grasses and flushing shrubs trigger a population boom, and birds that vanished in the dry years suddenly appear in numbers, breeding while the abundance lasts. The Simpson supports an avifauna tuned to this rhythm of feast and famine. Protecting an area this large is, in effect, protecting the boom: ensuring there is somewhere intact for the birds to retreat to, and somewhere ready when the rains return.
What makes this stretch of desert valuable to birds is partly what has not happened to it. The reserves that make up the area share light grazing pressure and careful habitat management, and that distinction is everything in arid country. Hard grazing by cattle, and the trampling and weed invasion that follow, can strip the spinifex and canegrass that ground-dwelling birds like the Eyrean grasswren depend on entirely for cover and food. The inclusion of conservation properties such as the Bush Heritage reserves of Ethabuka and Cravens Peak, alongside the national parks, reflects a deliberate shift in how parts of the outback are being looked after, from pastoral production toward the protection of habitat. For specialists that need intact dune vegetation to survive, that lightness of touch is not a luxury. It is the whole point.
The Simpson Desert Important Bird Area centres near 25.00 degrees south, 138.19 degrees east, straddling the Queensland-South Australia border within the broader Simpson Desert and Channel Country. From the air it reads as parallel red dune fields interrupted by gibber plains, the dry braided channels of Eyre Creek and the Mulligan River, and scattered clay pans and waterholes that flash silver after rain. Birdsville (ICAO YBDV) is the principal gateway airfield to the east, with Bedourie and Boulia (YBOU) strips in the region and Mount Isa (YBMA) the nearest larger airport to the north. Recommended viewing altitude is 6,000 to 10,000 feet to read both the dunes and the watercourses. Visibility is generally excellent in the dry season; expect dust in high wind, and look for the green flush across the dunes in the weeks following significant rain.