Port Douglas Australia is located 65km north of Cairns International Airport in Tropical North Queensland. In 1986, Saint Mary's was the only church left in Port Douglas and in danger of being demolished.
Port Douglas Australia is located 65km north of Cairns International Airport in Tropical North Queensland. In 1986, Saint Mary's was the only church left in Port Douglas and in danger of being demolished. — Photo: Jorge Láscar | CC BY-SA 2.0

St Mary's by the Sea, Port Douglas

Queensland Heritage RegisterPort Douglas, QueenslandChurches in Far North QueenslandGothic Revival church buildings in AustraliaWooden churches in Australia
4 min read

Stand at the altar of St Mary's by the Sea and the wall behind it is not a wall at all but a window, and through it the Coral Sea glitters across Dicksons Inlet. The view is the whole point. This small white Gothic church, all timber and corrugated iron, sits on the Port Douglas foreshore as if it had always been there - though in truth it was carried here, plank by plank, by townspeople who refused to let it go. Couples now marry beneath its lancet windows with the sea framed behind them, in one of the most photographed little churches in tropical Australia.

Blown to Bits

The church exists because an earlier one did not survive. Catholic worship came to Port Douglas in 1878, and by 1881 a church stood on Port Hill under Father Pierre-Marie Bucas, a Breton priest, on land overlooking the busy gold port. Then came the cyclone of 16 March 1911, which levelled much of the town. The local paper - itself knocked out of action - reported that the church and presbytery were simply 'blown to bits.' The community rebuilt the presbytery first and held Mass there, and the new St Mary's rose in its place, completed in 1914. Its builders, short of money and far from any city, almost certainly recycled timber from the wreckage of the old - a frugal, practical faith suited to a frontier coast.

A Church of Modest Means

There is nothing grand about St Mary's, and that is its charm. It is a simple timber-framed building with its studwork left exposed, set on low stumps, with a steeply pitched gabled roof of corrugated iron and side walls braced by plain timber buttresses. The framing is hickory ash; the cladding was northern silky oak. A small porch at the front is lit by triple lancet windows, and inside, three lancet-shaped timber arches separate the sanctuary from the nave beneath an unlined ceiling. It is exactly the kind of church a small, isolated community built to meet its own needs - honest about its limits, and a record of how such towns coped with the cyclones that periodically flattened their timber buildings.

Saved by the Town

By the 1980s the parish had outgrown the old church, and St Mary's was in poor condition just as Port Douglas began its transformation into a booming resort. In 1987 the Catholic Church handed the building to the local community, on the condition it stay in Christian use. The townspeople rose to it. As a project for Australia's 1988 Bicentenary, they moved the entire church from Port Hill down to parkland on the foreshore in November 1988, restored it through fund-raising and volunteer labour under the Port Douglas Restoration Society, and renamed it St Mary's by the Sea. The original hilltop site was sold to fund a new parish church elsewhere. The little church was not preserved by a government or a diocese, but by a town that decided it mattered.

Where the Sea Comes In

Today St Mary's is non-denominational, a community church given over to weddings, carol services and quiet moments by the water. Its enduring appeal is that window behind the altar, which frames Dicksons Inlet and the mountains beyond and lets the tropical light pour in. Heritage-listed since 1992, it is one of the oldest buildings in Port Douglas and one of the very few that survives from before the resort era - a glimpse of the timber town that stood here when this was a working port and not a holiday coast. People still come not only to marry but simply to sit, to watch the light move on the water through the glass, and to feel the small weight of a place a community chose, twice, to save.

From the Air

St Mary's by the Sea stands at 16.48 degrees south, 145.46 degrees east, on the Wharf Street foreshore at Port Douglas, beside Dicksons Inlet and the Coral Sea. The nearest airport is Cairns International (ICAO YBCS), about 50 km south along the Captain Cook Highway; scenic helicopters and seaplanes work the coast from there. From the air the church is a tiny white-roofed rectangle at the edge of green foreshore parkland, with the marina and inlet to one side and Four Mile Beach curving away to the other. Clear dry-season air, May to September, gives the best views of the coastline; the wet season brings cloud and cyclone risk - the same hazard that destroyed the church's predecessor in 1911.

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