A panoramic view of TARBET HILL not Law Hill, West Kilbride from Kirktonhall Glen, North Ayrshire, Scotland
A panoramic view of TARBET HILL not Law Hill, West Kilbride from Kirktonhall Glen, North Ayrshire, Scotland — Photo: Rosser1954 | CC BY-SA 3.0

West Kilbride

Villages in North AyrshireFirth of ClydeCraft Town ScotlandCeltic archaeology
4 min read

In 1826, two men from West Kilbride were digging drains at the foot of Goldenberry Hill, near Hunterston, when they pulled something extraordinary out of the wet earth: a small silver-gilt brooch made around the year 700 AD, decorated with interlaced animal bodies in gold filigree, amber, and intricate panels of zoomorphic ornament. The Hunterston Brooch is now considered one of the most important pieces of early medieval Celtic metalwork ever recovered. The brooch is in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. The hill where it lay buried is still there, west of the village, looking across the Firth of Clyde to the mountains of Arran. West Kilbride has been good at producing surprises like this for a very long time.

Saints, Stones, and Romans

On Blackshaw Hill, near the village, sits a Neolithic cup-and-ring marked stone carved with three spirals, an unusual variant of a familiar prehistoric motif whose meaning has been argued about for centuries. Iron Age fortifications turned up when the house called The Fort went in on Ardrossan Road in Seamill. The village name itself is generally believed to commemorate the Celtic Saint Brigid of Kildare, often known as St Bride, and local legend has her landing here around 500 AD to found a church, supposedly in front of where the Seamill Hydro now stands. The 'West' was added in the eighteenth century to distinguish this Kilbride from the larger settlement in South Lanarkshire. There has been a hamlet here since 82 AD, when the Roman general Agricola is said to have stationed thirty thousand troops in the area now called Gateside, and Roman finds have been turning up in Ayrshire museums ever since. William Wallace's uncle Crauford had an estate at Corsbie north of the village, still in use as the Crosby caravan park, and Robert the Bruce later granted the Barony of Kilbride to the Boyds of Kilmarnock.

Looms, Castles, and the Sea

Like much of Ayrshire, West Kilbride was a weaving village in the eighteenth century. Cottage looms made cloth for the Glasgow and Paisley markets, and the rhythm of the loom shuttle was, for generations, the dominant sound of the place. Two castles flank the village. Law Castle, a simple rectangular structure with sloping roof and tall chimneys, has been substantially restored in recent years and now functions as a holiday let. Portencross Castle stands right at the sea, four storeys high and L-shaped, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling and the Firth crashing at its doorstep. In December 2005 ownership of Portencross and its grounds was given to the group Friends of Portencross Castle, who have been steadily working on its preservation since. Just up the coast, the Hunterston B nuclear power station and the Hunterston Terminal owned by Clydeport bring the twenty-first century right to West Kilbride's doorstep, and a 24 MW wind farm has run on Busbie Muir since February 2004.

Craft Town Scotland

West Kilbride's most recent reinvention has been as Craft Town Scotland. The village now hosts a cluster of craft shops and studios, with the Barony Craft Centre, a converted 19th-century church, as its £1.7 million showpiece since 2012. In September 2006, the project won the Department of Trade and Industry's Enterprising Britain competition. Alistair Darling, then a senior cabinet minister, came to present the award and praised the community's resourcefulness. In January 2012 the project picked up another £100,000 award from Creative Scotland. The annual Scarecrow Festival, the first in Scotland, foster community spirit while honouring the village's agricultural roots. Yuletide Night, held on the first Friday of December, closes Main Street and Glen Road to traffic so that a procession of children can follow Santa to the village hall, with stalls and fairground rides spread along the street. These are small festivals. They are also exactly the kind of community ritual a village this size needs to keep itself coherent.

The People Who Came From Here

West Kilbride has produced a surprising density of notable people. Nicola Benedetti, who won BBC Young Musician of the Year in 2004 at the age of sixteen and has since become one of the most prominent violinists of her generation, was born here. John Boyd Orr, who would win the Nobel Peace Prize in 1949 for his work on world nutrition, spent most of his childhood in the village. The mathematician Robert Simson, whose work on Greek geometry earned him a memorial plate in the village describing him as the Restorer of Grecian Geometry, was born in West Kilbride. Lieutenant General Sir Aylmer Hunter-Weston, a controversial First World War commander, lived here. The judo gold medallist Loretta Doyle, the open-water swimmer Andy Donaldson, the concert pianist Roy Howat, and the artist Alasdair Grant Taylor all carry West Kilbride in their biographies. The village is also, according to a 2004 Ministry of Defence report cited in the source article, one of the UK's leading UFO hotspots. Make of that what you will.

From the Air

Located at 55.6966 degrees North, 4.8576 degrees West, on the west coast of North Ayrshire facing the Firth of Clyde. Glasgow Prestwick (EGPK) lies about twenty-one miles south. Glasgow International (EGPF) is about twenty-three miles northeast. The Isle of Arran, with Goat Fell rising above 2,800 feet, dominates the western horizon. From the air, the village sits in a green pocket above the coastline, with Portencross Castle, Hunterston Terminal, and the nuclear station all clearly visible to the north.

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