Elizabeth Springs, looking north - Lat: 30°. 45'. 15" Long: 136°. 30'm artwork by George French Angas, 1859
Elizabeth Springs, looking north - Lat: 30°. 45'. 15" Long: 136°. 30'm artwork by George French Angas, 1859 — Photo: George French Angas | Public domain

Elizabeth Springs

Australian National Heritage ListDiamantina Lakes, QueenslandAquifers in Australia
4 min read

There is a fish that lives in one place in the entire world, and that place is here. The Elizabeth Springs goby grows no longer than your finger, and it has spent something like a million years in the warm, mineral-rich water of a handful of desert springs southeast of Boulia, evolving in total isolation from every other fish on the continent. Around it cluster snails and plants found nowhere else either. Elizabeth Springs is a freshwater island in an ocean of arid country, fed not by rain but by water that fell as rain hundreds of thousands of years ago and travelled vast distances underground before rising, at last, into the light.

Water With a Long Memory

Elizabeth Springs is one of the natural discharge points of the Great Artesian Basin, the immense underground reservoir that underlies nearly a quarter of Australia. Rain falls on distant ranges, soaks into porous rock, and creeps through the basin for tens or hundreds of thousands of years before pressure forces it up through faults and fissures to the surface. Where it emerges in the desert, it builds mound springs, raised platforms of minerals and sediment laid down grain by grain over millennia. Since at least the late Pleistocene, through ice ages and droughts that erased other water sources entirely, these springs have flowed without pause. In a landscape where the rivers run dry for years at a time, that permanence is everything. The Great Artesian Basin springs are the primary source of reliable fresh water across most of arid Australia, and Elizabeth Springs is among the most important of them all.

Life Found Nowhere Else

Isolation is an engine of evolution, and these springs have been running that engine for ages. The Elizabeth Springs goby, scientifically Chlamydogobius micropterus, exists in this single spring complex and nowhere else on Earth. So does a minuscule snail, Jardinella isolata, whose name fittingly means isolated. The springs hold four of the eleven known plant species endemic to Great Artesian Basin wetlands, plus relict plants stranded here that grow nowhere within 500 kilometres. Scientists prize these springs precisely because their captives have nowhere to go, making them living laboratories of endemism and speciation. Elizabeth Springs is now regarded as the only relatively intact Great Artesian Basin spring still holding its full living community in far western Queensland, the others having been lost. Each endemic species is a story of patience: a creature that adapted to one warm pool and never left, generation after generation, for longer than humans have existed.

A Place of the Wangkamadla

Long before any of this was written into heritage law, this was, and is, the country of the Wangkamadla people, who have known these springs for countless generations. Across the arid inland, Aboriginal people held precise knowledge of the soaks and springs that meant the difference between life and death, and they carried that knowledge as both practical wisdom and sacred trust. Many of the artesian springs feature in Aboriginal stories and hold deep spiritual significance. The connection to Elizabeth Springs has never been broken. Wangkamadla people worked on the surrounding pastoral stations, including Glenormiston, Sandringham and Marion Downs, and continue to live in the nearby towns of Bedourie, Urandangi, Boulia and Mount Isa, returning to visit sites in the country around the springs. When Elizabeth Springs was added to the National Heritage List in 2009, it was recognised for both its natural wonders and its enduring cultural meaning to the people who belong to this place.

A Trickle Where a River Ran

The springs are in trouble, and the cause runs deep underground. For over a century, bores sunk across the Great Artesian Basin have drawn down the pressure that pushes water to the surface, and the springs that depend on that pressure have paid the price. At Elizabeth Springs the flow has collapsed from an estimated 158 litres per second to less than five, a fall of more than 95 percent. Across far western Queensland, other springs have simply gone extinct, their endemic species vanishing with them. That is what makes Elizabeth Springs both precious and precarious: it is a survivor in a landscape of losses. The springs were fenced in the 1990s to keep out cattle and feral animals, and a captive breeding program now safeguards the goby against catastrophe. A creature that endured a million years of ice ages and droughts is now kept alive partly by human care, in the same country where human thirst for water nearly finished it.

From the Air

Elizabeth Springs lies at 23.34°S, 140.58°E in the Shire of Diamantina, reached on the ground via Springvale Road southeast of Boulia and now protected within Elizabeth Springs Conservation Park. From the air the springs appear as small, bright patches of wetland vegetation and water set in vast pale arid plains, a striking green anomaly amid dry channel country, though the wetland footprint has shrunk as flows declined. The site sits between the Georgina and Diamantina drainages. Nearest fuel and services are at Boulia (YBOU/BQL) roughly 100 km away; Bedourie (YBIE/BEU) lies to the south and Birdsville (YBDV/BVI) further south. This is exceptionally remote terrain with negligible artificial lighting and very clear, dry skies for most of the year.

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