The students listen the explanation and examine the model of Candi Jawi during their study tour at Trowulan Museum, East Java, Indonesia.
The students listen the explanation and examine the model of Candi Jawi during their study tour at Trowulan Museum, East Java, Indonesia.

Jawi Temple

Hindu temples in IndonesiaBuddhist temples in IndonesiaCultural Properties of Indonesia in East JavaSinghasari13th-century Buddhist temples13th-century Hindu temples
4 min read

The base is black stone. The upper walls are white. The contrast is stark and deliberate, as if the builders wanted to make visible the philosophical dualism at the temple's heart. Jawi -- originally called Jajawa, as recorded in the 14th-century court poem Nagarakretagama -- is a syncretic Hindu-Buddhist candi perched on the eastern slope of Mount Welirang in Pasuruan Regency, East Java. It was not built as a place of ordinary worship. King Kertanegara, the last ruler of the Singhasari kingdom, ordered its construction as a shrine for the Shiva-Buddha sect, a uniquely Javanese fusion of Hindu and Buddhist traditions that the king himself patronized. When Kertanegara was assassinated in 1292 during a rebellion, the temple took on an additional role: it became his mortuary monument, a place where his ashes were enshrined alongside those placed at the Singhasari and Jago temples.

The Last King of Singhasari

Kertanegara was not a cautious ruler. He expanded Singhasari's influence across the archipelago, sending military expeditions as far as Sumatra and challenging the authority of the Mongol Yuan dynasty by mutilating an envoy sent by Kublai Khan. That act of defiance would bring a Mongol invasion fleet to Java's shores in 1293 -- but by then, Kertanegara was already dead, killed in 1292 by Jayakatwang, a vassal duke from Kediri who seized the throne. The king's son-in-law, Raden Wijaya, would exploit the Mongol invasion to destroy Jayakatwang, then turn on the Mongols themselves, founding the Majapahit empire from the ashes of Singhasari. Jawi Temple, commissioned during Kertanegara's reign, outlived the dynasty it was built to serve. It became the memorial of a king whose ambition shaped the political geography of Southeast Asia.

Where Shiva Meets Buddha

The syncretic faith that Kertanegara championed was not merely political convenience. Javanese Shiva-Buddhism, known as the Shiva-Buddha sect, held that the Hindu god Shiva and the Buddha were complementary manifestations of the same ultimate reality. This theological fusion shaped the temple's design and the statuary that once filled its niches. Archaeologists have found images of Nandisvara, Durga, Ganesha, Nandi the sacred bull, and Brahma within the temple -- the full pantheon of Shaivite devotion. The Durga statue now resides in the Mpu Tantular Museum in Surabaya; most of the other statues are kept at the Trowulan Museum. The Brahma image has been lost, though fragments remain in the temple's storeroom. Inside the garbagriha -- the inner sanctum -- sits a yoni, the symbol of cosmic creation, anchoring the space in Hindu ritual meaning even as the temple's broader program embraces Buddhist cosmology.

Black Stone, White Stone

Jawi Temple rises from a landscape of volcanic slopes and rice terraces roughly 31 kilometers west of Pasuruan city and 41 kilometers south of Surabaya, along the road between Pandaan and Prigen. The temple's most visually striking feature is its material contrast: the base and lower sections are built from dark andesite, while the upper portions use lighter stone, creating a two-toned silhouette against the green hillside. The structure features a portal with flanking makara -- stylized sea-creature carvings that guard the entrance stairs. A flight of steps leads up to the main chamber. The overall form follows the conventions of East Javanese candi architecture, with a clear division between base, body, and towering roof section, though the syncretic program gives it a theological complexity unusual among its neighbors.

Twice Restored

By the 20th century, Jawi had suffered centuries of tropical weathering, earthquakes, and neglect. The Dutch colonial administration undertook the first restoration between 1938 and 1941, stabilizing the structure and reconstructing portions that had collapsed. A second, more extensive restoration followed under the Indonesian government from 1975 to 1980, with the project completed in 1982. These efforts preserved the temple's essential form, though the removal of its statuary to museums has left the interior chambers quieter than Kertanegara intended. Today, Jawi stands beside the main road in Candi Wates village, accessible to any traveler passing between the lowlands and the volcanic highlands. The mountain behind it still fumes occasionally -- Welirang is an active volcano. The temple endures at its foot, a monument to a king, a faith, and a kingdom that burned fast and bright before giving way to something larger.

From the Air

Located at 7.66°S, 112.67°E on the eastern slope of Mount Welirang in Pasuruan Regency, East Java, at moderate elevation above the surrounding lowlands. The temple sits along the road between Pandaan and Prigen, approximately 41 km south of Surabaya. Mount Welirang's volcanic cone provides a dramatic backdrop. Nearest major airport is Juanda International (WARR/SUB) approximately 50 km to the north-northwest near Surabaya. Abdul Rachman Saleh Airport (WARA/MLG) near Malang lies roughly 40 km to the south-southeast.