Weymouth

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5 min read

On New Year's Eve, the country's biggest fancy-dress party happens in Weymouth. The pubs of St Mary Street and St Thomas Street fill with Roman centurions, dinosaurs, Vikings, Disney princesses and dozens of more obscure costume choices, and they pour out into the streets between bars. The locals are not entirely sure when this tradition began. They are quite sure it is not stopping. The same town that puts on the New Year's costume spectacle is also the place King George III chose for summer bathing in 1789, beginning the transformation of an old port into one of England's first seaside resorts.

Where the King Bathed

King George III made his first visit to Weymouth in 1789, drawn by doctors who believed sea bathing would help his recurring bouts of illness. The royal endorsement turned Weymouth into a fashionable resort almost overnight. The Esplanade was laid out, Georgian terraces went up along the seafront, and a sandy beach that had been merely useful became a destination. A statue of the king still stands on the seafront. The mile-and-a-half sweep of pale sand remains the town's main draw - Weymouth Beach is one of the gentlest-shelving beaches on the south coast, ideal for paddling families, with the curve of Weymouth Bay holding off the worst of the Channel weather.

The Jurassic Coast

Weymouth sits roughly halfway along the Jurassic Coast, England's only natural World Heritage Site - 95 miles of cliff and beach running from Exmouth in Devon to Old Harry Rocks in Dorset, with rocks spanning 185 million years of geological history. To the west of Weymouth, the long shingle ridge of Chesil Beach runs eighteen miles to Bridport. To the east, the Isle of Portland juts out south of the bay - technically a peninsula, often called an island because it is tied to the mainland by Chesil and feels separate in every way that matters. From the cliffs at Osmington just east of town, the famous Osmington White Horse - a chalk hill figure of George III on horseback, cut into the hillside in 1808 - rides forever toward London. The X53 First bus runs along the coast to Axminster, stopping at most of the dramatic viewpoints.

Getting Here Without a Motorway

Dorset has no motorway. Drivers from London follow the A35 toward Dorchester, then take the A354 south to Weymouth. The West Country approach uses the A35 from Bridport. South West Trains - now South Western Railway - runs services to Weymouth station every thirty minutes from London Waterloo, an arrangement secured during the run-up to the 2012 Olympics when the sailing events made transport upgrades politically possible. National Express coaches link Weymouth to London Victoria, Portsmouth, Bournemouth, Brighton, Bristol, Blackpool and Helston. The ferry history is paradoxical: Weymouth was for over a century a major cross-Channel port, but today the furthest you can travel on a passenger vessel from the harbour is Portland. Brittany Ferries and Condor Ferries shifted their Channel Islands and Normandy services to Poole some years ago.

The Harbour and the Town

Weymouth's inner harbour cuts straight into the heart of the town. Pleasure craft jam the moorings in summer; fishing boats land their catch in the early hours. Crabbing on the quay is the standard occupation for visiting children - a length of line, a piece of bacon, and patience are all that is required. Hope Square, just south of the harbour, holds the former Devenish Brewery buildings now converted into Brewers Quay. The main shopping streets - St Mary Street, St Thomas Street and New Bond Street - run within five minutes' walk of the beach. Independent retailers fill the side streets. The Weymouth Pavilion stands at the southern end of the Esplanade, between the beach and the harbour, hosting touring shows and the annual Christmas pantomime. The Tudor House Museum and the various pop-up incarnations of Weymouth Museum tell the local story to whoever has time to listen.

Food, Drink, Festivals

Seafeast is a Dorset food festival held on the Weymouth peninsula each September, taking advantage of the local fishing fleet's catch and the inland farms of Dorset. The 2025 edition was cancelled to allow sea wall repairs, but the festival is expected to return in 2026. Local cuisine runs to fresh crab, dressed in the shell with a lemon wedge; mackerel pulled from the bay; and the curious local late-night specialty of chips and cheese, a post-pub favourite that has somehow never quite gone national. Camping is genuinely good around here - Eweleaze Farm above Osmington Village runs basic farmer's fields with solar showers and ocean views that cost more in any conventional hotel. Haven Holidays operates large family parks at Littlesea and Weymouth Bay. The lack of high-end hotels in the town centre has been a recurring local grumble; the Georgian bed-and-breakfasts of the Esplanade fill the gap with their own kind of charm.

From the Air

Weymouth at 50.613 N, 2.457 W on the south coast of Dorset, midway along the Jurassic Coast. From altitude Weymouth shows as a town wrapped around a horseshoe bay, with the Isle of Portland hanging south on its tombolo and Chesil Beach curving west toward Bridport. The town centre sits at the western end of Weymouth Bay; the inner harbour cuts north into the town from the harbour entrance just south of the Pavilion. Nearest airfields: Bournemouth (EGHH) about 45 km east, Exeter (EGTE) roughly 90 km west, with Compton Abbas (EGHA) inland to the north. Portland Heliport lies a few miles south on the harbour-facing side of Portland. Recommended cruise 3,000-5,000 ft for views that take in Portland Harbour, Chesil Beach and the long Lyme Bay arc.