Christmas decorations in the Reception Room, Government House, Brisbane, Australia, 2019
Christmas decorations in the Reception Room, Government House, Brisbane, Australia, 2019 — Photo: Chris Olszewski | CC BY-SA 4.0

Government House, Brisbane

Official residences in AustraliaTourist attractions in BrisbaneGovernment Houses of AustraliaGovernment of QueenslandLandmarks in BrisbaneHistory of BrisbanePaddington, QueenslandQueensland Heritage RegisterBenjamin Backhouse buildings
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A homesick German merchant gave this house its name. Johann Christian Heussler arrived in colonial Brisbane, made money in trade, and in 1865 built himself a villa on a wooded rise west of the young town. From its verandah he could see a far-off blue ridge on the horizon, and he called the place Fernberg, German for 'distant mountain.' Heussler did not keep it long. Within a few years the cost of upkeep had overwhelmed him, and the house passed through a procession of owners before the Queensland government finally bought it. Today that merchant's hilltop retreat is Government House, the official residence of the governor of Queensland, and the name he chose still hangs over the front door.

A Merchant's Folly Above the Town

When the architect Benjamin Backhouse drew up Fernberg in 1865, Paddington was barely a suburb at all. The hilltop sat in rough bushland on the edge of settlement, and a sale notice from 1877 marvelled that 'go where you will the house is seen towering aloft above every tenement in the neighborhood.' Backhouse was a busy colonial architect, his name attached to villas across Queensland and New South Wales, and he gave Heussler a brick-and-stone house several storeys tall with broad verandahs built for shade and breeze. But a grand house demands a grand income. Heussler could not sustain it. The property changed hands repeatedly, owned at times by men who never bothered to live in it at all, a fine address waiting for someone who could afford its ambitions.

The House That Boom Money Built

That someone arrived in the 1880s. John Stevenson, a pastoralist and member of the Legislative Assembly, bought Fernberg flush with the confidence of Queensland's boom years and hired the architect Richard Gailey to remake it. Gailey more than doubled the house, turning Backhouse's 1860s villa into a full Victorian Italianate mansion, complete with a prominent tower, faceted bays and a new entrance facing north. Stevenson's wealth bought stables, an aviary, a glasshouse, even a tennis court. Then the 1890s depression arrived and swept his fortune away. By 1895 the property was mortgaged. The mansion that boom money had built now stood as a monument to how quickly that money could vanish.

A Temporary Home That Stayed

Government House came to Fernberg almost by accident. In 1909 Queensland handed its original vice-regal residence to the brand-new University of Queensland, leaving the governor without a home. Plans for a purpose-built Government House at Victoria Park got no further than the footings. So in 1910 the government leased Fernberg as a stopgap, and in 1911 bought it outright, despite complaints that the house was too small. The 'temporary' arrangement never ended. Wing by wing the place grew to fit its new role: formal gardens for vice-regal garden parties in 1910, a major eastern wing in 1937, administration buildings, staff cottages and the slow accretion of a working official residence around the old merchant's villa.

Inside the Walls

Step into the central foyer and you meet the house's strangest flourish. A life-size figure of Robert the Bruce, the medieval Scottish king, glows down from a large stained-glass window above an intricately carved timber staircase. Around the ground floor are the formal reception and dining rooms and the governor's study, some still furnished with pieces carried over from the old Government House. The grounds matter as much as the rooms. Of the 15 hectares, only about a quarter is formal garden; the rest is genuine remnant eucalypt bushland threaded with paths and gullies. In 1928 Governor Sir John Goodwin and Lady Goodwin cut 'woodland walks' through it, planting jacarandas and wattles among the gums.

A Register of Lives

More than thirty governors have lived here, and the house quietly records them all. The early arrivals were Scottish, Irish and English appointees of the Crown. Sir John Lavarack, who took up residence in 1946, was the first Australian-born governor. The list turns another corner in 1992 with Leneen Forde, Queensland's first woman in the role, and again in 2003 with Dame Quentin Bryce, who went on to become Australia's first female governor-general. Fernberg has survived university handovers, depressions, royal tours and the 1992 widening of a road that took a hectare of its grounds. The merchant who named it for a distant mountain is long forgotten by most. His name, and his house, endure.

From the Air

Government House sits at roughly 27.463 degrees south, 152.990 degrees east, on a wooded rise about 100 metres above sea level in Paddington, just west of central Brisbane. From the air the property reads as an unexpected pocket of dense green bushland surrounded by inner-city suburbs, with the Italianate mansion and its tower set among formal gardens; Mount Coot-tha rises to the west and the Brisbane CBD towers stand to the south-east. The nearest major airport is Brisbane Airport (ICAO YBBN), about 12 kilometres to the north-east; Archerfield Airport (YBAF) lies to the south. Best viewed at low altitude in clear daytime conditions, when the green estate stands out sharply against the surrounding rooftops.