In 2016 the ecotourists who visited Lavushi Manda National Park spent, between all of them combined, 330 dollars. The park occupies 1,500 square kilometers of mountains, miombo woodlands, and seasonal wetlands in Zambia's Muchinga Province. Thirty-two bed-nights were booked that year: a three-percent occupancy rate. These numbers are not metaphors. They are the actual scale on which a mid-sized African national park operates when its large mammals have been poached out and the last wild black rhinoceros in Zambia was seen here sometime in the late 1980s and never seen again.
Lavushi Manda sits on a plateau between the Muchinga Escarpment to the east and the alluvial flats of the Bangweulu floodplain to the northwest. The eleventh largest of Zambia's twenty national parks, it was gazetted as a Game Reserve in 1941 and promoted to National Park in 1972. Its centerpiece is a small range of hills that gives the park its name. From a basic campsite called Peak, a moderately fit hiker can reach the summit of Lavushi Mountain in two and a half hours. The park holds no permanently standing lakes, but the Chibembe plain and Lake Mikonko retain standing water deep into the dry season, and the Lukulu River keeps flowing year-round, narrow in November, surging in December when the rains arrive. Riparian forests along its banks contain raphia palms, which do not grow in the more famous Kasanka National Park just to the south. Botanists know the place by these small differences.
When you cannot point to rhinos or lions, you point to what you have. A 2015 herping trip recorded the skink Mochlus sundevallii at Fibishi Camp and the flap-necked chameleon Chamaeleo dilepis in the canopy. Possibly unique forms of Trachylepis varia and T. striata were collected on the mountain range. The Lukulu River banks yielded flea beetles, marsh beetles, longhorn beetles, chafer beetles, some species found once, some collected multiple times. BirdWatch Zambia surveyed the park in 1998 and found enough specialist miombo birds (pale-billed hornbill, racquet-tailed roller, Souza's shrike, Bohm's flycatcher) that BirdLife International designated Lavushi Manda an Important Bird Area in 2001. Black eagles and Augur buzzards work the rocky outcrops. The endangered Pel's fishing owl hunts the river at night. The story a place tells when its large mammals are gone is different, but it is still a story.
For years the Kasanka Trust, the non-profit that runs neighbouring Kasanka National Park, also managed Lavushi Manda under a memorandum with Zambia's Department of National Parks and Wildlife. About a third of the Trust's budget went here. World Bank funding built administrative buildings, roads, a basic conservation centre. Frederick Mbulwe became park manager and held the post until he retired in 2017. In that same year the Kasanka Trust handed management back to the government, citing financial and managerial strain. Roads have since been maintained unevenly. Some boundary cut-lines are no longer cleared. The work is done by a mix of DNPW rangers and 25 village scouts hired with World Land Trust funding from the Mpumba Community Resources Board. In 2016 they made 34 arrests and secured 22 convictions for poaching. Hunters in the Mpumba chiefdom voluntarily surrendered twenty firearms that year.
Rangers here manage the woodland with matches. Early in the dry season they set deliberate fires, controlled burns that consume the underbrush while the weather is still cool enough to keep the flames low. This prevents poachers from setting more destructive late-season fires in September or October, when dry grasses and hot winds turn a single spark into something that can kill mature trees. Through the 2010s, unplanned fires here have been minimal. The sable antelope and warthog, chosen as indicator species in 2017, reflect the state of the recovery. Bushpig and common duiker are still targeted with wire snares. Hippos and crocodiles in the Lukulu River are hazards that even the best rangers cannot control. A fishing permit is five dollars for international visitors, camping fifteen. Catch and release only; no bait, no barbed hooks. The park asks for little. It keeps giving what it has.
Located at 12.25 degrees S, 30.83 degrees E in Muchinga Province, Zambia, elevation varies from plateau floor around 1,100 meters to Lavushi Mountain at the park's heart. No major airstrip within the park. Nearest airports are Serenje and the Kasanka landing strip to the west. From cruising altitude, the park appears as a slightly raised plateau of miombo woodland, with the Muchinga Escarpment rising to the east and the Bangweulu wetlands visible as pale grassland to the northwest.