De Molay House (2000), formerly Old Toowoomba Court House
De Molay House (2000), formerly Old Toowoomba Court House — Photo: Heritage branch staff | CC BY 3.0

Old Toowoomba Court House

Historic SitesColonial HistoryHeritage BuildingsSocial HistoryToowoomba
4 min read

A judge refused to work in the old courthouse at Drayton, calling it too dilapidated to enter, and that refusal in 1859 set this building in motion. The colonial architect drew up a replacement on Margaret Street in the growing town of Toowoomba, on land that had belonged to the Giabal people for thousands of years before any surveyor's chain touched it. The brick courthouse opened in 1863. But it is what came after the gavels fell silent, a gaol wall, a reformatory, a museum, that makes this place one of the strangest survivors in Toowoomba.

Court and Gaol

Toowoomba grew up on Giabal country, on the tableland the Giabal had shared for at least 40,000 years with the Jarowair to the north and the Jagera along the escarpment, peoples dispossessed within a single brutal decade as pastoral stations swallowed the Downs in the 1840s. By the 1860s the colonial town needed the machinery of colonial law. The two-storey brick courthouse opened in 1863, and a gaol rose on government land directly behind it to hold those arrested across the Darling Downs, the Maranoa, and the Warrego while they awaited trial. By September 1864 the prison's boundary wall was complete: a wall two bricks deep on dressed-stone footings, about twelve feet high, with tapered buttresses. That wall, against all odds, is largely what remains.

The Girls in the Reformatory

The building's hardest chapter began in 1882. By then the men were gone, sent to St Helena Island, and the Toowoomba gaol had been turned over to women prisoners from across Queensland. There was no provision for the youngest among them, so the old courthouse was converted into a female reformatory. The records are plain and difficult: girls were lodged here, some as young as four or five. They slept in compartments around a dining room, were schooled in a room that seated 22, and were put to work in a well-appointed laundry, washing for local families under the era's iron conviction that such children must labour. Two cells called darkrooms, for serious offenders, lay beneath the rear of the building. These were not criminals in any sense a modern reader would recognise. They were poor and orphaned and abandoned children, swept into an institution because the colony had nowhere else to put them. The reformatory closed in 1903, and the children were moved to Brisbane.

A Hall Built from a Prison

When the gaol was abandoned, Toowoomba's cultural ambitions moved in. The poet George Essex Evans had returned from a Maryborough eisteddfod fired with the idea of making Toowoomba a centre of music, art, and literature, and the inaugural Austral Festival in 1904 was a triumph. To house future festivals, supporters bought the old gaol site and hired architect William Hodgen, who did something inspired and thrifty: he used the massive stone-rubble prison wall itself as two walls of a vast new hall, so the building cost a fraction of what it should have. The former reformatory became the Austral Museum, its first exhibits including South Sea Islander artefacts and samples of every soil in Queensland. The festivals faded after Evans died during the 1909 event, but the hall and museum had given the grim site a wholly new life.

DeMolay House

After the museum came a private hospital, then a boarding house, then a guesthouse called Rutlands run by the Thompson sisters from about 1930 to 1960. When they sold the 19-room house, the buyer was the Toowoomba chapter of the DeMolay Order, a youth organisation, and the building has carried the name DeMolay House ever since, the only branch in the world to own its own premises. Restorers have turned up the building's buried past in passing: old roof shingles, cast-iron pipes, and, beneath the floorboards, a child's shoes and a little girl's dress. Outside, the prison wall endures. A corner of it still rises from Stirling Street, and a modern block of townhouses uses the old gaol wall as part of its foundations, the nineteenth-century stone quietly holding up the twenty-first century above it.

From the Air

The Old Toowoomba Court House sits at 90 Margaret Street in East Toowoomba, at 27.563 degrees south, 151.962 degrees east, atop the Great Dividing Range at roughly 690 metres elevation, opposite the greenery of Queens Park. Toowoomba Wellcamp Airport (YBWW) lies about 8 nautical miles west of the city; the Oakey military aerodrome (YBOK) is nearby to the north, so check for restricted airspace. Brisbane Airport (YBBN) is roughly 70 nautical miles to the northeast on the coastal plain. From the air, the building is a low hipped-roof hall close to the camphor-laurel-lined Margaret Street, one of Toowoomba's grand old thoroughfares, with the remnant L-shaped gaol wall traceable along the rear boundary toward Stirling Street. The wider city sits on the tableland just before it drops eastward into the Lockyer Valley. Toowoomba's high, dry winter air gives excellent visibility over the heritage streets of the city centre.

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