The Trakai Island Castle as viewed from the south.
The Trakai Island Castle as viewed from the south.

Raudondvaris Castle

castleslithuaniakaunastyszkiewiczgothic-revivalheritage
4 min read

Teutonic chroniclers writing in 1392 mentioned a pagan keep on a bluff above the Nemunas, the kind of brief notation that was usually a prelude to taking the place. The Order built a small fortress here called Koenigsburg, garrisoned with 80 knights and 400 soldiers. After Lithuania's victory at the Battle of Grunwald in 1410, the fortress passed to the kings of Poland and grand dukes of Lithuania as private property. In 1549, King Sigismund II Augustus gave it to his wife Barbara Radziwiłł, the Lithuanian queen-consort whose tragic life inspired Polish romantic poetry for centuries afterward. Six centuries and many owners later, the red-brick manor still stands on the same bluff, painted a slightly different red, and houses a research institute and a small museum about a Lithuanian composer born in the village.

How a Castle Got Its Name

Czerwony Dwór, the Polish name, means Red Manor. So does the Lithuanian Raudondvaris. The name comes from the brick. Barbara Radziwiłł's red-brick residence gave its color to the surrounding village, and the village name attached permanently to the building even as ownership changed hands repeatedly. After Barbara died in 1551, the manor fell into disuse and passed to the Gintowt-Dziewałtowski family, who quickly sold it back to the powerful Radziwiłł clan. Between 1653 and 1664, Prince Janusz Radziwiłł commissioned a substantial reconstruction that gave the building its essential current shape. The round tower, still visible on the south corner, is thought to be a piece of the original Teutonic keep, surviving every demolition the Radziwiłłs and their successors authorized.

The Tyszkiewicz Collection

Ownership passed through the Worłowski family, then the Zabiełło family, and in the 1820s landed with Benedykt Tyszkiewicz, member of one of the great noble houses of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Russian army devastated the castle after the failed November Uprising of 1831 against Russian rule, but the Tyszkiewicz family rebuilt, and the 1832-to-1855 renovation gave the building its current Gothic Revival appearance. They surrounded it with English-style gardens, a large orangery for lemon trees, an ice house, stables, and offices. The chapel, replaced in 1835, was designed by an Italian named Wawrzyniec Cezary Anichini, who died in the manor and was buried beside the chapel he had drawn. The Tyszkiewicz held the castle through the Russian period and into the early twentieth century, and during that century their art collection reportedly held works by Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Caravaggio, and the Polish history painter Jan Matejko.

School, Orphanage, Ruin, Institute

World War I broke the Tyszkiewicz hold. After the war the new Lithuanian state confiscated the property, divided most of the estate into individual plots for land reform, and put the manor itself to public use. It became a school, then an orphanage. World War II badly damaged the building. The Soviet authorities who arrived after 1944 oversaw a slow rebuilding from 1962 to 1975, repurposing the manor as the Lithuanian Institute of Melioration, the science of land drainage and agricultural water management, an unusually prosaic destiny for a building that had once held a Caravaggio. The institute remains there today, technically known as the Lithuanian Institute of Agricultural Engineering. The art that the Tyszkiewicz family owned is scattered, much of it lost in the war, some in museums elsewhere in Europe.

Two Museums, One Building

Inside the castle there are now two small museums. One is dedicated to the Tyszkiewicz family, telling the story of the noble dynasty that lived here for nearly a century and shaped the building's current appearance. The other commemorates Juozas Naujalis, the Lithuanian composer, conductor, and organist born in the nearby village of Raudondvaris in 1869. Naujalis is sometimes called the father of Lithuanian professional music; he founded the first Lithuanian song festival, composed sacred works that still appear in Catholic liturgy, and trained a generation of Lithuanian musicians. That his birthplace happens to sit beside the manor where local nobility once kept European masters on their walls is one of the small accidents of geography that the castle's museum quietly catalogs.

What the Round Tower Remembers

Stand at the base of the round tower today, the one historians believe was part of the original Teutonic Koenigsburg, and you are touching brick that has been here since the late fourteenth century. Six centuries. Barbara Radziwiłł's lifetime, the Battle of Grunwald, Napoleon's army passing through, the Russian Empire's century-long grip on Lithuania, two world wars, fifty years of Soviet occupation, and the restoration of independence in 1990. The tower has watched the Nemunas valley change use repeatedly. The composer's birthplace next door, the orphanage that lived in these rooms, the institute studying drainage in chambers once hung with European masters: all of it accreted here, and none of it erased what came before.

From the Air

Raudondvaris Castle sits at 54.943 N, 23.783 E on the north bank of the Nemunas River, about 10 km west-northwest of central Kaunas. From altitude, look for a red-brick manor complex with a distinctive round tower at one corner, set in mature parkland with the broad Nemunas curving south of the bluff. Kaunas International Airport (EYKA) lies about 18 km east; aircraft on approach to runway 26 from the west often pass within visual range of the castle on the river. Best viewed at low altitude in mid-morning when the red brick contrasts with the surrounding greenery.