Parque Central - Tababela, Equador
Parque Central - Tababela, Equador

Tababela

small-townsairport-communitiesandean-highlandsecuadorquito-region
3 min read

Tababela did not ask to become famous. The small Andean town sat quietly in the eastern outskirts of Quito's valley for most of its existence, a farming community on unremarkable plains. Then in February 2013, the new Mariscal Sucre International Airport opened on its doorstep. The old airport in Quito proper had been closed the same day, its runway hemmed in by apartment blocks and short on room to grow. The new one needed flat ground, and Tababela happened to sit on the flattest ground within reach. Overnight, a sleepy square became a waypoint for every international traveler arriving or leaving Ecuador's capital, and a small town learned how to host them.

An Hour and a Half from Quito

The drive from central Quito to the airport runs about 18 kilometers as the crow flies but roughly an hour and a half by bus, because the route twists down out of the Quito basin, across the Guayllabamba valley, and back up to the plateau where Tababela sits. The altitude drops several hundred meters along the way, which matters less for passengers than for the engineers who had to grade the approach. Aeroservicios runs buses between the airport and the old in-city airport terminal every 30 minutes, around the clock, year-round, with no intermediate stops. The ride costs eight dollars. The buses are air-conditioned, have WiFi, and handle the only direct commercial route between Quito and its own airport. For travelers facing flights at four in the morning, the calculation is simple. Staying in Quito means leaving the hotel before 2 AM. Staying in Tababela means leaving the hotel at five.

What There Is To See

Tababela is not a tourist town in any traditional sense. The central park, Parque Central, sits beside the parish church and is well-kept, cleanly swept, and plant-filled. Most streets have names, but those names are neither painted on signs nor printed on maps, a tradition that confuses no one because the town is small enough that a visitor cannot really get lost. Walking the perimeter takes most of an afternoon. The sun at 2,500 meters is intense and the air is thin enough to make newcomers sleepy, so locals recommend a sunscreen and a hat. Those who enjoy aircraft can walk to a viewpoint near the runway and watch the departures and arrivals. The tempo is calm even for Ecuador's busiest airport. A commercial flight might taxi past every twenty minutes at peak times, less often in the middle of the day.

Hostels and Hornado

The accommodation scene in Tababela grew up fast around the airport opening. Hotels, hostels, and bed-and-breakfasts fill the blocks nearest the Parque Central. Many arrange pre-paid airport shuttles for about five dollars each way per person. Some have English-speaking owners, though the overall percentage of English in town is small. A handful of restaurants operate with signs on the door advertising desayunos, almuerzos, and cena. Others just hang a hand-lettered board outside offering chocolate caliente and quick plates for a few dollars. After about 8 PM, most everything closes. A few tiendas stay open later for beer runs back to the hotel. Streets are not well lit, and the pavement has the occasional serious irregularity, so a pocket flashlight is genuinely useful.

A Strange Sort of Village

Tababela sits in an odd place in Ecuadorian life. It is unmistakably a small Andean town, with campesinos selling produce out of bags in the square and a church bell that rings for Sunday mass. But every hotel has a sign out front with flight arrival boards, and every conversation overheard in English is about connecting flights. Friendly locals will point visitors in the right direction and practice a phrase or two, but otherwise the town keeps its own rhythm. What it offers, in the end, is exactly what travelers sometimes need: a short walk, a reasonably priced bed, a quiet square, and a five-minute taxi back to the airport. Quito waits beyond the hills if visitors have the time. If not, Tababela is a decent place to hold still for a night while the planes go in and out overhead.

From the Air

Located at 0.18 S, 78.34 W on the Andean plateau east of Quito. Elevation approximately 2,510 m. Tababela adjoins Mariscal Sucre International Airport (SEQM), about 18 km east of central Quito. The town occupies a small plateau between the Guayllabamba River valley to the north and the higher ridges east of the Quito basin. Recommended viewing altitude 4,500 to 5,500 m for the best perspective on the relationship between the airport plateau and the capital basin. The Andean cordillera rises sharply to the west, and the Amazon drainage begins within 30 km to the east.