Tawi-Tawi

geographyhistoryculturephilippinesislands
5 min read

The name comes from jawi-jawi, the Sinama word for the banyan tree, and the island has them in abundance, their aerial roots dropping like curtains from branches that spread wide enough to shade a village meeting. Tawi-Tawi is the Philippines' southernmost province, closer to the Malaysian state of Sabah than to Manila, a scatter of 107 islands and islets at the southwestern tip of the Sulu Archipelago where the Sulu Sea meets the Celebes Sea. People have lived here since at least 6,810 BC. The bones, jars, and shells excavated from the Bolobok Rock Shelter Cave have been declared an Important Cultural Treasure. This is not a frontier. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in Southeast Asia.

Where Islam First Took Root

In 1380, an Arab trader and missionary named Makhdum Karim established the first mosque in the Philippines on the island of Simunul. The Sheik Karimol Makhdum Mosque still stands, its four 17th-century wooden pillars the oldest known Islamic artifacts in the country. Islam spread rapidly through the Sulu Archipelago, especially after the founding of the Sultanate of Sulu in neighboring Sulu province. Today, 99 percent of Tawi-Tawi's population is Muslim. But the Sama people, who make up most of the province's inhabitants, retained elements of their ancient animist religions even after conversion, creating a distinctive local practice that blends Islamic observance with older spiritual traditions. The province was and remains a center of Sama culture, its islands dotted with centuries-old burial grounds featuring traditional okil carvings of ancestors.

Sultanates, Empires, and Contested Waters

Tawi-Tawi's history reads like a ledger of colonial ambitions. In 1761, Sultan Muizz ud-Din signed trade agreements with Alexander Dalrymple of the British East India Company. In 1878, Baron von Overbeck of the British North Borneo Company leased the Sultan's Borneo lands for 5,000 Mexican dollars a year, a transaction whose legal interpretation would fuel territorial disputes into the 21st century. The Spanish built garrisons in Bongao and a naval base at Tata'an. The Japanese occupied the islands during World War II, prompting guerrilla resistance under the Sulu Command, which aided American liberation forces at Sanga-Sanga Island on 2 April 1945. Through it all, the Sama and Tausug people endured, their lives shaped by powers that claimed sovereignty over waters they had navigated for centuries.

The Father of a Province

Until 1973, Tawi-Tawi's municipalities fell under the jurisdiction of Sulu province. When President Marcos asked Commodore Romulo Espaldon why the young men of Tawi-Tawi were being recruited by the Moro National Liberation Front, Espaldon's answer was blunt: the Sama were tired of being governed from Sulu and wanted to manage their own affairs. Marcos created the province by decree, and Espaldon became its first governor. In his first 730 days, he spearheaded over 100 infrastructure projects: a provincial capitol, hospital, public market, 50 mosques, schools, an airstrip, piers, bridges, and a water system. The capital was initially at Bato-Bato before being transferred to Bongao, where it remains. Espaldon earned the title 'Father of Tawi-Tawi,' a recognition of the practical truth that provinces are built not by decrees but by the people who fill them with roads and roofs.

Islands at the Edge

The province comprises 11 municipalities spread across the archipelago. Sitangkai is the southernmost municipality in the Philippines. Sibutu is home to descendants of Malay royalty from Borneo and contains Saluag Island, the country's southernmost point of land. Simunul holds the oldest mosque. Mapun, formerly Cagayan de Tawi-Tawi, is the northernmost municipality, closer to Palawan than to the rest of the province. The Turtle Islands are a protected sanctuary. Bud Bongao, a 250-hectare mountain forest, is considered sacred. The main island supports endemic species found nowhere else, including the Tawitawi brown dove and the Sulu hornbill, though habitat loss from expanding settlements and agriculture has pushed many of these species toward critical endangerment.

A Crossroads of Languages and Livelihoods

Walk through a market in Bongao and you will hear Tausug, the lingua franca of the Sulu Archipelago, alongside multiple Sinama dialects, Chavacano, Cebuano, Yakan, Filipino, English, and Sabah Malay. The linguistic diversity mirrors the province's position at the intersection of the Philippines, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Agriculture, fishing, and agar-agar seaweed farming drive the economy, with copra as the leading agricultural product. Barter trade with Sabah has been a lifeline for generations, though it was temporarily banned after the 2013 Lahad Datu standoff and resumed in 2017 under tighter security. Sanga-Sanga Airport connects the province to Zamboanga City and Cotabato, while ferries link Bongao to Semporna across the border in Malaysia. Tawi-Tawi remains remote by Philippine standards, but it has never been isolated. Its people have always been connected, by water and by trade, to the wider world.

From the Air

Located at approximately 5.20N, 120.08E. The province spans the southwestern Sulu Archipelago, visible from altitude as a chain of islands between the Sulu Sea (north) and the Celebes Sea (south). The main island of Tawi-Tawi is the largest landmass. Sanga-Sanga Airport (RPMN) in Bongao is the primary airport. The Malaysian state of Sabah is visible to the west, and the Indonesian province of North Kalimantan lies to the southwest. Bud Bongao, the sacred mountain, is a prominent landmark on the main island. Best viewed at 10,000-15,000 feet to appreciate the full extent of the archipelago.