The market town of Huntingdon has been quietly producing English history for a thousand years. A Saxon prince called David, born here around 1144, grew up to be a Scottish royal; an anchoress called Christina of Markyate fled an arranged marriage from these streets in the early 12th century to live walled into a cell. The diarist Samuel Pepys learned his sums in the local grammar school. So did Oliver Cromwell - born in this town in 1599, the son of a minor gentleman, who would one day execute a king and rule England. Today Huntingdon is a town of around 24,000 in the gentle valley of the River Great Ouse, ringed by the A14, the East Coast Main Line, and a particularly secretive Royal Air Force station. Walk its high street and almost nothing announces what this place has produced.
Huntingdon was important enough in the late Saxon period to have its own mint and to feature in the Domesday Book. The Danes raided and settled. The Normans built a castle on the rise above the river; today only earthworks remain. Through the 12th and 13th centuries the Earls of Huntingdon were among the great magnates of the kingdom - and the title travelled, oddly, into Scotland. Prince David of Scotland was Earl of Huntingdon by the time he died in 1219, and his grandsons would fight over the Scottish crown in the contest the English king Edward I exploited to launch his northern wars. For centuries the town was small but consequential: a coaching stop on the Great North Road from London to York, a market town for the surrounding fenland, a parliamentary borough that returned its own MPs.
Oliver Cromwell was born here on 25 April 1599. His family were comfortable but not grand - the Hinchingbrooke Cromwells, the wealthy branch, were his uncle's people. Young Oliver attended the local grammar school in the High Street, the same building that now houses the Cromwell Museum. He returned in adulthood as MP for Huntingdon in 1628, falling out with the town's powerful patrons over the rewriting of its charter; the dispute pushed him into political opposition that, decades later, would put him at the head of a Parliamentary army. His son Richard Cromwell - briefly Lord Protector for nine months in 1658-59, dismissively nicknamed Tumbledown Dick - was also born in Huntingdon, as was his more competent younger brother Henry, the Lord Deputy of Ireland. For a small town to produce three of the central political figures of the Interregnum is not coincidence. It is a particular kind of provincial gentry network, churning out Puritans, parliamentarians, and one very serious soldier.
By the 18th century Huntingdon was a coaching town, its inns servicing the London-to-York run. The Old Bridge over the Great Ouse, a 14th-century stone span that connects Huntingdon to Godmanchester, carried the only road across the river until 1975. During the Civil War, Cromwell's own Roundhead forces partly demolished it in 1645 to slow a Royalist advance; the missing arches were eventually rebuilt as Gothic ones to match. The railway came in the 1840s, slicing through the town and giving it a station on what would become the East Coast Main Line - now a 60-minute commute to London King's Cross. The population, fairly stable around 4,500 from the early 1800s through the 1950s, exploded with post-war expansion: 14,648 by 1981, 23,732 by 2011.
Beyond the Cromwells, Huntingdon has been generous with its native talent. Henry of Huntingdon, the 12th-century historian, wrote the Historia Anglorum here. Samuel Pepys attended the grammar school in about 1644 and went on to keep England's most famous diary. The wood engraver George Mackley, the cricketer Charlotte Edwards, the rock singer Terry Reid (who died in 2025), the actor Himesh Patel - all were born here. Locally the town is best known today as the place beside RAF Wyton, the intelligence station two miles to the north-east. Sandy Heath broadcasts to the town from twenty miles south; the Hunts Post arrives weekly. The town centre, with its market square, four parish churches, and the Cromwell Museum, retains the compact medieval shape Cromwell would still recognise. The river still bends past the bridge. The trains still run on time.
Huntingdon sits at 52.3364N, 0.1717W on the north bank of the Great Ouse, with Godmanchester on the south bank. The town is most identifiable from the air by the 14th-century stone bridge over the river, the green sweep of Portholme meadow to the south-west, and the East Coast Main Line slicing through the western edge. The A14 motorway wraps around the south. Best viewed at 1,500-3,000 ft AGL. Nearest airfields: RAF Wyton (EGUY) two miles north-east, Conington (EGSF) eight miles north, Cambridge Airport (EGSC) about 18 miles south-east. RAF Wyton remains active with intelligence units, so respect any restricted airspace notices.